Pizza Power (Sorrento)

The weather forecasters nailed it. Morning showers greeted us when we opened the shutters. Regardless, we were not straying far from Sorrento itself. While we had sorted how to get to Naples on Monday, I was still to bed down how we were getting form Sorrento to Napoli Centrale on our day of departure. I wasn't keen on a private transfer and the Circumvesuviana didn't look like an option during the peak period when we have luggage.

My search turned up a shuttle service from Sorrento to Naples but nowhere on the web site did it specify where the pick-up point was. My guess was the station or the bus depot a few hundred metres down the road, but I wanted to be sure before I booked. We opted to walk to their office and ask the question.

Before we ventured out for breakfast, the usual rabble of tour groups went marching down the street. The school groups are the loudest. I don't know from whence they come or where they go because we never see them around town. There are a number of cruise ships in and they start early, to the extent that one group was leaving well before 9 this morning.

The usual ruckus they make reached a crescendo to the extent that we thought there was a protest march down in the street. What had occurred, as this particular group walked back to its waiting bus, was two of its number were hit by a car. Who'd have thought it? Walking on the street, where the cars belong and you get hit. I am amazed it doesn't happen more frequently. It would, if I was driving over here. While I will grant you that the Neapolitan drivers are out there, their behaviour is far more rational than that of a tour group blindly following a flag, walking down the centre of the road.

The rain cleared quickly and breakfast was at the usual gelateria/pasticceria, espresso and chocolate muffins. Little ones, not like the oversized version you see at home. Interestingly, although probably not surprising, the muffins were flavoured with lemon.

Ducati time pieces.

From there we navigated past the pick up point for our pizza class and, after a short detour, arrived at the office of Sorrento Coastal Shuttles. They were non-committal about the pick-up point, here or your hotel, depends, was the reply. The office was less than 10 minutes from our apartment so it wouldn't be an issue for us. We booked our seats, supplied the details of our accommodation which is on the road back to Naples and it was decided they would collect us there. Bonus.

Home via the supermarket in case we require a light dinner after making our lunch time pizzas and then, it was time for domestic duties. Reconciling the credit card with the receipts. This is a relatively simple task at home, a glance down the page usually does it, but when your life revolves around your card for every purchase and in a foreign language, it takes time to make sure things are ok. They were and dozens of receipts went into the recycling.

By the time we left for our pizza class, the cloud had returned and the wind had picked up. We dusted off our apron's from Matt's tour, stowed them in our bag and walked the few minutes to the Plaza Hotel. Chef Luigi was already in fine form when he collected us and a Canadian couple for the 10 minute drive to his restaurant/cooking school. There was another Australian couple, a mother and daughter American pair and an Italian father and his two sons.

The Plaza Hotel, our pick up point, is located next to the gorge. Down in the depths, there is a derelict building that was once a mill, among other things. Once the piazza was established above it, the humidity became unbearable and people couldn't work there so it was abandoned. Since then, it has become a sort of open air terrarium and has fostered the growth of numerous varieties of ferns.

Tirabuscio Restaurant is perched on the hill above Sorrento, beyond some ageless olive groves and lemon orchards. Inside the restaurant tables were set for lunch and two other, longer tables were set up to make pizzas. We sat around and chatted while the mini-van made another trip back to town to collect the last of the participants/students.

Before we got our hands dirty, we watched Maria make bocconcini balls while drinking a glass of their red wine. The process looked so simple I am keen to try it at home. It is really just milk, rennet and a little salt. We shall see if it is so easy. The bocconcini was lovely and we sampled it with some foccacia and a variety of flavoured olive oils. What an excellent way to commence a class.

Watching the magic happen.

Ushered back inside, we assumed our places around the long table where ingredients had already been 'measure' out. Yeah, not so sure about that. I am unusually meticulous when making pizza dough and follow the recipe closely. Everything is weighed. Not today. It blew my mind.

Take your stations.

A glance down the table suggested the amount of flour in front of each person would be roughly the same. Roughly, not exactly. Luigi talked about the process and the importance of 'double 00' flour, Caputo is best. I'm changing brands, Caputo is much higher in protein.

The recipe, if you like a lot of pizza.

The process begins. Make a well in the centre of your flour. Add a good pinch of salt. Unmeasured.

Add water to fill the well and then add a pinch of fresh yeast. All unmeasured.

Add some olive oil. Unmeasured.

Then, using one finger start mixing the ingredients together. There was a bowl of flour on the table to add to the mixture to obtain the correct consistency. Some of us required more of the flour than others depending on how much water or oil we added. We worked the dough, gently.

Because dough needs time to prove, our efforts were all collected and slapped together. It would become tomorrow's bread. We were using dough prepared yesterday. Unlike at home, Luigi did not allow the dough to prove at room temperature, the pizza balls we had shaped were to go straight into fridge for 24 hours. At least I got that bit right.

At home I would wait for the dough to come to room temperature before I work it into a pizza shape. Wrong. Work it straight from the fridge. Use your hands and fingers to stretch the dough into shape and then use closed fists to stretch it to about plate size.

The topping was, as usual, crushed tomato with a little sauce and then additives, the fresh bocconcini pieces, salami, ham, marinated mushrooms. Then into a pizza oven the size that Cait and Luke have in their backyard.

Two minutes later your pizza is ready. It is now time to add oregano and chilli flakes, post cooking. Serve with red wine. It was seriously good.

It might not be the cheapest pizza I've had, but I learned a lot that I will try at home. Using a stand mixer would make it even simpler. We even scored some bread making tips. It was an excellent day. No dinner required.

If you are young enough to remember the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles you may remember their song, Pizza Power. Memories.

Alla prossima.

Lemon Tree (Sorrento)

Breaking news: Flixbus have "carefully reviewed" my request again and decided a refund is warranted. A win for the good guys.

After a couple of big days, we decided today would be a day of consolidation, dear reader. It would be an opportunity to enjoy some better weather and have a closer look around Sorrento.

First stop was the gelateria/patisseria that Giovanni introduced for an espresso and pastry. The Italian way to start the day, something strong and something sweet. You need something strong to help you battle the tour groups. Apparently the season ends next week but there is no end in sight of the tour groups, although many of them are from cruise ships docked at Naples.

A beautiful day after the rain cleared.

The corso was wet underfoot after the morning rain, but the cloud was clearing to a beautiful blue sky day. After breakfast, we located the tourist information centre to obtain a paper map of the town and to inquire about the public transport situation, given the fuel blockade. We were advised to go to the SITA bus office near the station for the most up to date information on buses. 

Looking down, I imagine it would be packed in summer.

I loaded the Port into maps and off we went. Sorrento, despite being on the bay with stunning water views is not at sea level. It is a cliff top community so the 12 minutes to get to the port on foot we found a little incredulous. It was, however, accurate, at least on the way down.

It looks calm from a distance.

There is a lift that costs €1,20 per person regardless of which direction you travel, and luggage is extra. We used the ramp/stairs and arrived on foot. The port ticket offices were very busy and most had queues, but the big numbers were at piers 6 and 7. It was a mass of people. A ferry arrived and picked up a few people and left. The crowd numbers were undiminished.

We walked over to try to make senses of what was happening. There was no signage of course and from what we could see, two official people working with the hordes that were waiting. People with sizeable luggage, people without, any number of tour groups following flags on sticks. One man was walking the multiple lines asking to see tickets, with no hope of being to verify them. The crowd dutifully held up pieces of paper when asked if they had a ticket. They could have been waving a restaurant menu.

None the wiser, we returned to the office area to discover an arrivals/departure board. There were not a lot of ferries running. In fact all trips to Capri were suspended for the day. I guess that may have accounted for the numbers waiting. Hopefully things would improve later in the day.

A different perspective of the buildings we see from our balcony.

Once again we used maps to get us back to Sorrento on high. It did not suggest the lift and directed us towards the road that snaked up the cliff face. We missed it directing us to stairs half way up and continued to another set of stairs etched into the cliff face. They didn't look very safe and thankfully the authorities had agreed as they were closed.

Upwards ever upwards, we located another set of stairs that led through a tunnel and out near the main piazza. The timing would work for our trip to Naples on Monday, but the uncertainty of the ferries is an issue. They were suspended earlier in the week because of rough seas, but today's issue was fuel related we later found out. The blockade is over so hopefully the fuel supplies will be replenished quickly.

As we made our way back to the main piazza, we passed a church. No we didn't, in we went. It was the Basilica Sant'Antonio. Nothing out of the ordinary at first glance, side altars, false decorated ceiling, gold embossed altar, a grate that permitted viewing of the crypt. Well that's different. And the crypt was not the usually staid, understated place of worship. It was quite bright with the statue of Sant'Antonio taking pride of place.

The crypt.

The grate looking into the crypt.

The main altar.

Back in the corso we walked to the Cathedral dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo, or Saints Philip and James. It had the usual array of side altars, although some were, is 'decommissioned' the right word? The altar remained but there was no saint above it. The stations of the cross and several other features were made of inlaid wood. The exquisite craftsmanship was on display everywhere you looked. In terms of the competition between Basilica and Cathedral, it was a close run thing. The bell tower gives the win to the Cathedral.

The ceiling and the organ.

The main altar.

Inlaid wood depicting the crucifixion.

An unassuming façade for the cathedral.

Next stop was the garden of the Villa where the Sophia Loren exhibition was happening. The garden left us underwhelmed. There was the display of impatiensaround a pond  on the drive and the rear garden was lawn and lemon trees.

The search for the deli that was on Giovanni's list proved somewhat more challenging. We spent a great deal of time searching our memories and wandering back lanes to no avail. Eventually we happened upon it by chance. It will be easier to find next time.

After all that walking, it was birra time and we located a small bar on the corse and sat and watched the passing parade for a while. We were still discussing Monday's trip to Naples and whether we could brave the elements or the lack of fuel and attempt a trip to Amalfi and Ravello. The only place that could provide the answer was the SITA bus representative so that is where we headed.

The best view of Vesuvius so far.

She confirmed the ferry suspensions were fuel related and not to do with the weather. Buses were running to a revised schedule but they were guaranteeing Friday and Saturday only. Tomorrow's weather was not good enough for a trip south so we thought we would wait and see how things were after the weekend.

A quick detour to the supermarket on the way home restored our supplies. We spent the remainder of the afternoon planning our future excursions. The more time we spent looking at Naples, the more difficult the options became. In the end we decided that on Monday when we have a guided tasting tour, we would try the Circumvesuviana train to Napoli Garibaldi and then use the Metro to get to the old town.

We have pushed the Amalfi trip back to Tuesday when the weather should be much improved and tomorrow we are going to a pizza making class in Sorrento.

O'Parrucchiano towards the front door.

Beautiful by day.

Earlier in the day, we had sought out a restaurant that our host had recommended as a locals haunt for good food.  O'Parrucchiano La Favorita on the main corso, has been in existence since 1868 and, apart from its food, it is known for its decor. The tables are set out under a grove of lemon trees, all lit up with fairy lights at night. The restaurant is on several levels and can seat hundreds of patrons if all areas are open. We made a booking for the evening and returned at 7:30pm.

Fairy land by night.

A tranquil place for dinner.

The ambience was lovely, the menu was extensive, as was the wine list and we settled on sea food for both our starters and main courses. Jayne had a chef's plate of prawns, calamari, courgette flowers with ricotta and leaf wrapped mozzarella, followed by barbecue prawns and squid with roast potatoes. My 'tasting plate' was a meal in itself with octopus, calamari, prawns, anchovies and mahi-mahi. Followed by paccheri pasta with langoustine, squid and prawns. No, dear reader, no dessert. That is the most either of us has eaten since we left Matt's food tour.

As far as 'local's favourite' goes, I'm not so sure. We were surrounded by Americans and when we went to survey the gardens, British accents were common. The most Italian I heard spoken came for the wait staff and one other couple. The prices were also tourist oriented.

Lemon Tree by Peter, Paul and Mary is today's title song. Lemons are a big thing in Sorrento, not just in the restaurant where we dined.

Alla prossima.

Eve of Destruction (Sorrento, Herculaneum, Pompeii)

The weather proved as fickle as a FlixBus timetable. Overnight we had storms, old school style, with lightning and thunder and torrential downpours. Is there anything better than lying in bed and listening to the rain fall and the thunder rumble? Maybe it's just me and childhood memories, but I love it, dear reader. And so began the day.

We managed to get into the piazza and have breakfast without getting wet. The rain was now sporadic at best. The café chosen will probably not be a place to which we will return. The prices were double what we were paying in the south. I understand this is a coastal/tourist area and they need to make hay while the sunshines, but €6 for a doppio espresso, please.

At this point, I want to reflect on being a tourist. It is important to be a good tourist and an ambassador for your country. That means, among other things, embracing the local cuisine. We have attempted to eat every specialty dish of the regions we have visited and have gone close to sampling them all. Consequently it disturbs me to see the rise of thing like 'Americano coffee' on menus in Italy. (The fact that Starbucks exists is bad enough). I can't recall that being the case when we were last here. I understand that businesses have to cater for the tourist trade and give them what they want. But really? For starters, Italy is the birth place of coffee culture and no American knows how to make coffee. If you are visiting another country, embrace their culture. It doesn't hurt to learn a few local phrases either.

In our breakfast wanderings, we located our meeting point for our walking/food tour of Sorrento with Giovanni. The big decision for the day was regarding wet weather gear. The weather radar suggested the rain was gone, but could it be trusted? We ventured out without protection, so to speak.

Giovanni is a young local who has his own guiding business, specialising in Naples and Sorrento. You can find information here varrialeexperiences.com. It is also being a good tourist to support the local businesses and a tour such as this does that. Giovanni obviously had a good relationship with the owners of the businesses we visited and that was of benefit to us.

It looks like church but was a meeting place for the rich and famous back in the day.

Our tour was a taste of Sorrento with some local history and colour added. It was an excellent way to get to know a new place and also understand a little of their culture. There are not of lot of pictures for this part of our day because the weather defied the radar and the rain was intermittent and some places were crowded.

Here is snapshot of what we sampled:

1. At a gelateria/pasticceria we had sfogliatella. A custard and fruit pastry of 2 varieties - soft or crunchy (fried). We tried the soft as it is reliably good. Crunchy needs to be fresh out of the oven.

2. Next stop was a delicatessen, the likes of which were common in Australia before the duopoly of supermarkets destroyed neighbourhood stores. Here we had Provolone del Marco and Fior di latte (both DOC), tarallo, capocollo, Neapolitan salami, Sorrento tomatoes with olive oil and basil, and a glass of local Primitivo.

3. Fortunately we walked a little before our next stop. Gnocchi Sorrentina with a glass of Aglianico Beneventano. (I prefer the Primitvo). Jayne is not a gnocchi fan but she enjoyed this traditional local dish.

4. Now it was time for more alcohol. Limoncello of course, the great Italian digestive. We visited two different stores that made the Limoncello on site, but they were very different products. One was very balanced, light and fresh and the other was extremely alcoholic and spirity. We also sampled limoncello based cookies (their term) and a variety of sweets. Pistachios and chocolate featured heavily in the variants of the original.

5. Our final stop for the day was actually at the place we had breakfast. It was time for coffee and cake. A Neapolitan espresso and Lemon Delight which reminded me of the Nun's breasts of Bari. The dessert people, keep it clean.

The last Limoncello store.

An example of the exquisite inlay work.

On this food extravaganza we also stopped by the local Cathedral and a grand villa housing an exhibition of Sophia Loren photographs. Sophia is a big feature of Sorrento and her image pops up everywhere. We also visited an artisan whose craft is creating pieces of art made of wood inlays. His work is truly remarkable and incredibly time intensive and he is literally the last of his kind. Wood inlayers were once a stock-in-trade for Sorrento but the younger generations have not been willing to take it on.

The 'Sophia Loren' Villa.

Our walking tour lasted three hours and happily, we dodged the rain, which was quite heavy at times. Giovanni is worth contacting if you are down this way. It is not an easy way to make a living because it is season dependent. He told us that at the end of the month (October) most of the stores and restaurants will close because the tourists will be gone. In fact some things close at the beginning of October, like the Campania Express train between Sorrento and Naples.

The façade of the Cathedral.

Clearly, after the tour, we did not require dinner and returned to the apartment to enjoy the view from the balcony. And perhaps a little wine. It was time to rest because tomorrow would be a big day.

Night time from the baclony.

Looking to Naples.

Herculaneum

The next day the weather had improved a little. The rain looked like it had cleared, dear reader, although the wind had picked up slightly. It was still cloudy across the bay and Vesuvius had yet to fully reveal itself from behind its cloak of cloud.

As I have commented previously, the social unrest in Italy does not make the media in Australia, I assume because the pictures aren't as evocative as Paris burning. That's what the media thinks of the intelligence level of Australians, no picture, no story, - cheers Mr Murdoch. Anyway, the issues in the south are to do with blockades which are stopping grocery supplies from reaching the shops. The bigger impact though is on fuel. Most service stations on the Sorrento peninsula are without fuel. The blockades move position each day making it extremely difficult for local traffic - those fortunate enough to still have petrol.

As a result of this, the commencement time of our scheduled tour was moved from 10:30am to 8:00am. We were outside waiting at the appointed time when our driver, Alessandro, pulled up. We opted for a private transfer and tour with a qualified local guide/archaeologist because negotiating the train system and/or buses was difficult for a first timer. Also, we wanted a guide because Pompeii is so vast you could waste much time there and not see a lot. We used Goodheart Limos who pre-booked everything for us, they were recommended by a friend (cheers Santo) and were perfect (also less expensive than a lot of other operators).

The drive to Herculaneum was just over an hour and we had to negotiate the deadly section of road where the contra flow is in place. Our wait time was about 5 minutes, but it looked a lot worse heading back to Sorrento. We arrived at the car park to find it mostly unoccupied and there we met Andrew, our guide. He has dual degrees in Science and Archaeology. As a winemaker, he has spent time in Australia, Britain and France. A very knowledgable, interesting person.

A typical street.

A depth perspective. It was buried a long way down.

We knew Herculaneum was less of a drawcard than Pompeii, but we were surprised at how deserted the place was, although admittedly, we were there much earlier than originally planned. In any case, we walked straight through the turnstile into the park, and paused along the walkway above the precinct for a brief contextual introduction. Then we headed into the museum that, among other displays, houses a wooden boat, amphora, glassware, jewellery, furniture and coins excavated from the town.  The museum itself is small because much of what has been uncovered has been displayed in the museum in Napoli.

A carbonised fishing boat.

Gold bracelets.

Herculaneum is a much more compact site for 2 reasons; firstly, the town itself was a seaside resort for the very wealthy and only had about 5,000 residents. Secondly, only a proportion of it has been excavated as most of the ruins lie under the modern day town and will never be unearthed. 

A fresco.

A cupboard and contents.

Walking around the town, you see quite quickly a snapshot of life as it was, frozen in that moment of catastrophe, because the eruption of Vesuvius rained down molten lava that instantaneously burnt and buried all the people and their possessions, perfectly preserved from deterioration. Houses, restaurants, shops, bath houses, complete with signs, frescoes, floor mosaics, plumbing all document life for the very wealthy. Anything organic was carbonised and the artefacts that have been unearthed are in pristine condition.

Fresco as part of a shrine.

Hercules, Minerva and Juno

Mostly, it was easy to move around the park despite a few tour groups (we deliberately chose today for our tour because there were fewer cruise ships docked in Naples and Salerno). The guides all know each other and there seems to be an unwritten code among them as to how to navigate sites respectfully and efficiently. There was, however, one rogue operator who caused some angst. This guide had a substantial group which kept clogging up the focal points of the venues. Another guide approach our guide to discuss this interloper. As Andrew pointed out, the official tour operators all have to satisfy requirements/qualifications, annually update training to maintain currency and ensure quality of experience. Drop-ins from cruise ships are not welcome. (Cruise ships are never welcome in my world).

Wooden shutters similar to those used today.

Graffiti on a bedroom wall.

Anyway, once we had completed the tour of the site, Andrew and Alessandro conferred about our programme since it was only 11am. It was decided that it would be better if we continued straight on to Pompeii and the planned winery tour with a 'light lunch' would be enjoyed at our leisure, post archaeological experience. It was ok by us to keep going and so we jumped back in our car and were spirited away to Pompeii where we expected the crowds to be significantly worse.

Pompeii

Our guide Andrew, once again, met us at the entrance where indeed there were many more people milling around to enter. Oh the joys of a private tour ... we were instructed to accompany him past the entry queue and then to pause while he went to the ingresso, after which he returned with a map of the site. Then we magically bypassed the queue, suddenly finding ourselves walking up the entry ramp and into the city of Pompeii.

The monster in the background.

A Roman court.

This was a very different experience to Herculaneum, in scope and scale as well as impact from the eruption. Rather than an elite resort, Pompeii was a thriving, heaving cosmopolitan trade city and its demise was not instantaneous but rather a slower death under tonnes of volcanic ash, debris and toxic gases. 

A road with blocks to cross safely.

A bakery and mill.

Again, life in the first century C.E. has been captured and preserved with the forum, the temples, the markets as well as the wealthy, the middle class, the poor, the slaves and their respective abodes. This precinct, still only partially excavated, is much bigger and you could easily eat up a lot of time, trying to navigate your way around this ancient metropolis and still not see the places of significance.

A shrine within a house.

From a brothel wall.

Instead, Andrew deftly steered us through the main highlights and then away from the tour groups to vias less travelled but as revealing - markets, villas, houses of ill repute, sites currently under excavation to illustrate the painstaking process required to carefully bring the preserved history into the modern day. 

Fresco from a dining room.

Fingerprints in wet plaster from that fateful day.

We cannot stress how beneficial it was to have a (local) archaeologist unpack all the subtleties, the classic ancient historical and mythological contexts, the logistics of living life until it all changed at noon on a perfect day in  Pompeii. Clearly the segue to today's title, Eve of Destruction by Barry McGuire form 1965.

A recent excavation. Leda and the swan on the wall.

An atrium at the house of Nero's second wife.

We covered a lot in 2 hours and we watched people wrestle with their site maps, trying to locate particular places with not much idea of what they found there. In any case, our guide asked us at the end of the tour which was our preference, Herculaneum or Pompeii - neither, as both, while united in destruction under the shadow of Vesuvius, were totally different experiences.

Lunch at a winery

It was then time for, what I thought, was a wine tasting and a light lunch. You know, bar food and a couple of drinks. Yeah nah. We were welcomed in a whirlpool of buongiornos, handed a glass of sparkling rosé (I assume), names ticked off the list, and then it was time for an unexpected winery tour.

Vesuvius.

Yes, I realise, dear reader, that touring a winery is not my first rodeo and my disinterest may be measured against that, but, it was really a tick-a-box tourist 'thing' that I would have avoided, given the opportunity. We walked, glass in hand, familiar with that, into the vines. Brief stop to explain the place is organic and on volcanic soil so no irrigation required, then to gaze admiringly at some bottles they now store in an old 'cistern'. Next stop was in front of some vines. The explanation came so quickly I couldn't catch the varieties. They grow red and white. I hope I didn't spoil the surprise.

Iconic shot, grapes and an Italian pine tree.

Then down into the area where the grapes are processed. We looked at some stainless steel vats and then, be still my quaking heart, into the vat room. It was here it was revealed they use oak barrels from Croatia. WTF? Never have  heard that before.

Then it was time for our 'light lunch'.Seriously? This is Italy. At best 'light lunch' is tautology, or irony, or a unicorn because it doesn't exist. The very acceptable sparkling rosé was replaced by a very average bianco. The antipasto plate (to share?) arrived looking delicious until an identical plate arrived for Jayne. Too much.

Grapes. Are you surprised?

Next came a red wine. Whatever. Can we go now? No, there was more food. A bowl of spaghetti in tomato sauce (no, not like that) and some meatballs to share. The meatballs were cold and tasteless (mine are heaps better). The new red wine, their "best" according to the server also arrived. It was absolutely, definitely their best wine, but would I buy it? At €55, not a chance in the world.

Can we go now? No. There was dessert and this is a light lunch. With a dessert wine. A cheese cake thing appeared, covered in icing sugar, never a good look and a thin wine that was vaguely sweet with the word passito in its name.

Wines in the former cistern.

Can we go now? YES! In a booked tour, you don't always know what you are getting as was the case with this lunch. While the early part of the meal was appreciated, if we'd had the chance we would have altered the amount of food. Anyway, I sent Alessandro a message on WhatsApp to say we were done and soon enough we were being driven back to Sorrento and the safety and comfort of our balcony.

Once again there was no need for dinner.

Pompeii loves dick. They were everywhere.

I'm impressed.

PS

The FlixBus saga continues. I submitted a form to have our fare to Naples reimbursed because we missed our connection. My application was rejected because according to their (AI) data the bus arrived at 12:50pm. My response was terse and I requested my application be escalated if they were unable to access the data that showed my ticket boarding at Matera was stamped 12:47pm, making an arrival time at Bari of 12:50pm impossible. Without time travel. We shall see ...

Alla prossima.