It was a pity we didn’t have more time to spend in such an idyllic place dear reader. It was also a pity that we didn’t sleep better because we were up at 5:00am to commence the tent pack down before breakfast at 5:30am and a scheduled walk out of camp at 7:00am.
The good news was our guides eased up on the breakfast this morning and Dave and I passed on the porridge. We made good with a cup of tea and our last bite-sized cherry ripe and a muesli bar. After all we were only walking 8km today. Too easy.
| Available in green. |
Everyone was ready to depart camp at 7:00am however the sun was still not up and it would not be a great idea to ford Eastons Creek in the semi darkness. While we waited for the light our guides talked to us about the Palawa people and their enduring connection to the land. They also spoke of the ‘black wars’ in Tasmania. Like most other parts of the country, the black wars and fightback of the first inhabitants was down played and often dismissed as myth. And like other parts of the country, this is absolutely untrue
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| Also in purple. |
The local aboriginals fought hard for their land and the battles are chronicled in The Black War by Nicholas Clements. It saddens me that in 2026, Australia as a country still cannot own its past. Today’s title represents a 2018 musical piece composed by Tasmanian Helen Thomson. The piece features nine movements telling the story of Tasmania’s past and the fifth movement, The Black War, features Palawa voices crying “Parrawa! Parrawa!” (“Go away! Go away!”).
| The Eastons Creek ford. |
By 7:30am, the light was strong enough for our first of three water crossings for the day, thankfully with boots on since the ford at Eastons Creek was only metres from our camp. The track winding back to forestry trail where we would meet the bus was, as usual, fundulating and mostly on tracks wide enough to walk two abreast. Of course, there were the usual obstacles of fallen trees and some parts of the track were severely overgrown. At one point we followed a Bastian Thrush up the road. The wildlife increased the further we were from the rainforest.
The second river crossing was at the Lyons River. While all of us ditched boots for our sandals and reef shoes, Lani suddenly appeared on the other side of the waterway fully booted having found an easier section to cross further upstream.
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| Upskirting was sanctioned in the Tarkine. |
Once we had dried and reassembled our footwear we walked for another hour along the same kind of undulating track before hitting the final river crossing of the trip. Here, we recrossed the Arthur – the same river we had crossed on our first day. While we had been spared the rain, the upper limits of the river had not. It was wide and flowing much faster than when we crossed it on the first day. Definitely boots off. Again.
| The final crossing. |
As we crossed the river, three wedge-tailed eagles could be seen circling and climbing ever higher in on air currents. Usually only seen hunting in pairs, we assumed the third was a young bird being trained by its parents. Shortly after, a small flock of yellow tailed black cockatoos, Mangana, made an appearance. They greeted Dave and I on our first morning and were now bidding us farewell. This was goodbye from Palawa elders who had looked after us throughout the week and gifted us a wonderful experience.
Boots back on, we walked the remaining 500m to the waiting bus. Lunch today would be at the Penguin Tap House. Beer and burgers in the perfect sunshine. What an excellent way to finish our trip.
| About to head to Penguin for lunch (and a beer). |
It was a 2 hour drive back to Launnie to our hotel where a hot shower awaited. We did a couple of loads of washing and headed down stairs to the restaurant for dinner. A comfortable bed and crisp white sheets ensured we slept well. Not even the bells on the nearby church could keep us awake.
The flight home was uneventful, except for the trackwork in Sydney which forced Dave to take not one, not two, but three trains, once we were back in Sydney.
Another trekking adventure over, we are already planning for next year.
Weather: blue skies and sunshine.
Distance covered: 7.9km.
Total distance: 63.6km

