And so, dear reader, we have arrived at another transit day. In an attempt to break up the drive from one destination to the next, we are intending to explore places along the way. It will also help justify having the car and not travelling by train. The scheduled stop today was Alicante with its Castillo de Santa Barbara.
Using Apple Maps proved to be a better option than Waze, up to a point, but we are not at that point yet, dear reader. The map guided us on and off particular roads, dropped us onto a toll road where we had the joy of two tolls within 10km of each other on a fairly average road. It is what it is when you don't know what to expect or where to go.
We had a few interesting moments in and around Alicante where we were directed from the main road to rejoin it within a couple of kilometres and we did successfully arrive in Alicante. I may mentioned previously that signposting is not a strong point of the Spanish and so it was proven again today.
Driving blind, so to speak, and following instructions never fills me with confidence, but we were turned onto the beachside drive through very touristy Alicante, with the words "your destination is in 1.8km". At no point did the words "you have arrived at your destination" reach my ears. The next instruction, "complete a U-turn," filled me with dread. How? Where? The traffic on the other side of the road was bumper-to-bumper, even though we are definitely into shoulder season now.
U-turn successfully completed, we headed back the way we had come. Again, no comforting message to say we had arrived. At some point I was able to pull over. The Castillo was towering above us but we had seen not one sign denoting its entrance or the recommended free parking area we had put into maps as our initial destination.
The Alicante waterfront. |
Finally Jayne resorted to putting the map coordinates into one App and was able to discern where the car park was. Off we went, confidence flagging with the rising heat. One more wrong turn and a correction and we were in car park B. Read vacant land being utilised by locals to park their cars. Whatever. Car parked and locked, we set off in search of the lift that provides access to the castillo, perched above the town.
It wasn't quite The Man from Ironbark stuff, but we wandered here and wandered there, following Google Maps this time. We had risen above sea level and eventually had to get back down to the main road where we espied people milling around. Jackpot! We had found the lift entrance and were only about half an hour behind schedule.
Apparently you can walk up to the castle on the other side, but beachside access requires the use of the lift at the end of a very long tunnel, dug into the hill underneath the castillo. We joined the relatively short queue and the guy in front of us asked if I was over 65. Yes I replied. No need to queue, entrance is free, head straight in, he said, lamenting the fact that he is only 61. Cool. We checked with the attendant as we reached the front of the line. Yes free entry - no proof, except our aged visages, required. Excitement. We saved €5,40.
Looking back toward the lift. |
We walked to the end of the longish tunnel to abruptly come to a halt outside a lift door which suddenly opened and an operator invited us to go up inside the castillo. We found ourselves expelled into a complex of stone halls decorated with family crests of those who had occupied the castle from its earliest iteration in the 16th century. From there, we stepped out into brilliant sunlight in the castle compound with its turrets, open areas, seating and of course, the ubiquitous gift shop.
Weathered limestone in the wall. |
Again, the place was not overly crowded so we wandered around to take in the 360° views of Alicante and the seafront with its sandy beaches which make this place a huge drawcard in summer. The castillo was constructed in three eras and the architecture reflected this. It did not take long to traverse the grounds so it was then time to depart, not via the lift but through the gift shop and down the pedestrian path that leads into the top of the old town.
Looking down on the city. |
The view from the top. |
The aim was to follow a suggested walking route that took us to various points of interest, all the while working our way down the sloping old town site to the beach level. On the way, we saw the church, a square complete with fountain and old fig trees and a street that has been rejuvenated by the installation of large statues of mushrooms that sport faces (think Alice in Wonderland), with various insects sitting atop them. Unsurprisingly it is now called Mushroom Street.
Mushrooms. Magic. |
Leaving the old town precinct, we headed back along the foreshore towards our car, via the Avenue de Espana. This is another well-known Alicante point of interest, not because of its fountain or palm trees, but because of the path itself which is a wide promenade, tiled to create the optical illusion that the surface itself is undulating. Rather off-putting to walk on something that looks like it is curving to find it is flat as a tack.
Tricky. Watch your step. |
Anyway, once this was negotiated, we located the car that was happily still where we had parked it. It was now time to resume the drive to our next destination, Cartagena; specifically our hotel, the Puerto Cartagena. What should have been a relatively easy exercise to put the name into Maps, turned into a 15 minute guessing game as the app would not recognise any variation of the hotel name.
We started to doubt if the hotel existed, but eventually we put the side street address in to Maps to at least bring us into proximity of where we thought we should be and drove out of Alicante in a far less frantic manner than how we had arrived.
Again the suggested route seemed to avoid petrol stations. This will be a problem on the next leg of our journey. The roads continued to be good with light traffic and we were soon driving down the waterfront of the port of Cartagena to an unknown destination. The map deposited us outside the AC Hotel, not a name we were familiar with.
Given I was in a no parking area, Jayne ventured into the hotel to see if this was where we were staying. She returned minutes later. Yes this was our hotel, apparently known by many names. Momentary relief. And I mean momentary. You need to go inside, the receptionist needs to know how big the car is ... parking is via a lift. WTAF! Seriously? Oh, yes, dear reader. As if trusting your life to automated mapping systems and driving on the wrong side of the road (in a manual car) wasn't enough, I now had to negotiate a car lift.
Someone else driving into the lift. |
Inside I went, produced the passports and informed her that the car was considered a 'compact' one by the car hire company. Okay, she said, level -2 when parking. Park anywhere. As the keys were with Jayne because we had parked in a 'forbidden area', I returned to the car while the lift door was opened.
Hmmm. Define tight fit, dear reader. Middle-aged men in skinny jeans? A pair of leather pants a size too small? Anyone in Speedos? Not pretty pictures and neither was the one I had in front of me.
The sides of the lift were marked by the misjudgements of previous guests. I have no room for error, it's a hire car with an horrendous no claim bonus. In we guide the car, pull the side mirrors in manually, and continue in a cold sweat. The lift begins to move and after a minute or so shudders to a stop. The doors open and the first thing to greet us is a sign, "the swinging of cats is not allowed". Clearly, I thought, there is not enough room. I edge the car forward, still sweating and survey the available car spaces in the garage. It may have well been designed by Gaudi. Straight lines were scarce, car spaces were at strange angles and there were pillars supporting the building above just about everywhere I looked.
We selected a spot that was vaguely angled toward the lift we had just exited and performed a complex, but graceful 27 point reverse to park the car. No pressure. Thanks to Billy Joel for today's title, Pressure from 1982. High on adrenaline and paranoia, I re-parked the car move the nose in about 2cms. "Pretty sure we'll be exploring Cartagena on foot," Jayne quipped as we searched to locate elevator to reception.
Check-in completed, we went to unpack to discover our west facing room had the curtains open and no air conditioning on. I dialled the air con down to 19° and the fan to maximum and closed the curtains. Unfortunately the bed, although comfortable was covered in a doona/duvet that would not look out of place in a Norwegian winter. This is not the first time we have encountered this issue. What a day! We headed down to the bar for a nerve calming beer.
Cartagena is surrounded by fortification. |
There was little left to do but explore a little of Cartagena before dinner. We walked along the waterfront and discovered a burger competition sponsored by Uber Eats. It was a little early for any self-respecting Spanish person to be out dining but there were a few tourists checking it out. We didn't buy anything but it smelt really good. Back near the town hall, a protest on behalf of Palestine was gathering with a series of speakers; it was a peaceful protest with a minimal police presence.
Arteries harden while reading the menu. |
We wandered around the town to see where things were located and then eventually settled for dinner around 8pm at La Taranta. The waiter spoke a little more English than we speak Spanish but dinner was ordered and it was lovely. The star of the show a local dish of octopus. Highly recommended. We sat outside the restaurant because it was such a lovely night.
There are some beautiful buildings. |
The walk home was less than 10 minutes. The room was cooler but still on the hot side. It would be a night of wrestling with the doona, on again, off again.
Why are transit days so routinely difficult?
Until tomorrow.