2013/10/01

Life in the fast lane (Japan - Hiroshima)

Hello again dear reader, I'm sorry for neglecting you last evening, but, we are on a fast track with a short time-line and last evening was spent on Skype catching up with the loved ones back home.  The last two days went like this: Tokyo - Hiroshima - Toyota.  There was a lot of train travel and a lot of counting to 18, or sometimes not quite to 18 and then working out who was missing.

We had a reasonably early start yesterday and walked to Shinagawa station to catch the shinkansen or bullet train to Hiroshima.  The distance is around 675km and can take as little as 4 hours!  (Warning editorial comment coming).  A 'very fast train' is something that politicians in Australia have been talking about for years, probably as long as they have been thinking about a second Sydney airport, with little result.  In a country such as Australia with vast distances to be travelled, a bullet train would take cars off the road and probably reduce air traffic as well.  It would be good for the economy and the environment - so why hasn't it happened?  Every time I travel overseas I am ashamed at how parochial and small thinking our politicians can be.  Solar panels proliferate throughout Spain and France and would make great sense in our country given the climate, but?  Nothing of any substance.  The only real attempt by the NSW government and then a different program by a Federal Government resulted in both programs becoming political footballs.  We are the losers gentle reader.

Anyway, travel by shinkansen is the way to go.  We arrived in Hiroshima, 18, walked to the hotel, checked in, dropped our bags and walked back to the station, 18, OK.  Another train ride and then a ferry to Miyajima Island.  It is the most famous island in Japan.  Certainly it was popular while we were there - every second tourist group was an Australian school tour.  The main attraction is a shrine dating back to the 6th century.  There are also a number of temples and a small village that caters to the tourist trade.  Part of the tourist interest was a herd of young deer that knew how to work the crowd and when they were ignored would go straight to your bag looking for food.  The Bambi factor wore off quickly - all I saw was venison.  Although I see did a dog in a pram. Seriously! There is a photo.

Brett and friend
Dog in pram!!!!





Back together to get onto the ferry for the return trip, 17, where's ... OK, 18.  We shared the top deck with an Australian primary school on their exchange program.  Following a 30 minute train ride back to Hiroshima we dispersed throughout the station area for dinner.  The teachers opted for a traditional Hiroshima dish of noodles, vegetables and sea food, cooked by the chef and then served on a BBQ in the middle of the table to keep it hot while it is eaten.  Delicious.  Then it was back to the hotel for an early night before another early start.









Breakfast at 7am to be downstairs by 7:30 and walk to the tram stop to catch the tram to the Peace Park.  The tram was crowded and slowed by all the red lights.  It may have been quicker to walk - well, without the students it may have been quicker to walk. 16, 17, 18.  Let's go.  Just inside of the park we stopped so I could give the students a potted history of World War 2 and the significance of Hiroshima in history and now.  The dome was the building closest to the hypercentre that was left standing after the bomb was detonated.





On the other side of the river is the children's peace memorial.  





Stephanie hung the paper cranes that the students had made with the offerings of so many other students from around the world.  It was a strangely tranquil place in the middle of a bustling city and in sight of the skeleton of a building that is known as the dome.  I wondered, as I watched the students, if they really understood the significance of this place.  Many of them had been involved in folding the paper cranes, yet did not know the story of Sadako.  The story of Hiroshima may as well be ancient history to them and yet to us it is still so real.  That is why it is vital that our young people visit Hiroshima and other peace memorials, to understand, or to try to make sense of the past in the hope they won't make the same mistakes.





Almost like a crucifix
From there we went into the Museum.  In what was a shock to the system for Jayne and I, we didn't get an audio-guide and we had a time limit to be out the other side.  We had become one of those tour groups we always sneered at - the table had turned.  We did have 75 minutes and although we couldn't read everything and spend the time that we would have liked, we saw enough.  Confronting doesn't even get close and while I write this, I have tears in my eyes. That period in history is under-reported for the atrocities that humanity was able to bestow on humanity.  The history texts still focus on the vanquished and what the Hitler inspired Germans were able to do through the death camps.  I wonder how history would read if Australia or the United States or England or France had not one, but two nuclear devices detonated over predominantly civilian areas?  The Japanese are remarkably under-stated about it, polite even.  The closest the museum information boards came to a political comment suggested that the nuclear bombs needed to be deployed because over $2 billion US (we're talking the 1940s) was spent making them. So, I'll say it. The deployment of nuclear weapons against Japan had more to do with justifying a military cost and keeping the USSR in line than it did with ending the war.


The time the bomb was detonated

Cranes made by Sadako herself



How do you compare that type of thinking with the regime of Hitler? Discuss.

The world didn't change on September 11 2001; it had already changed on August 6 1945. Discuss.

Post museum, another tram, 18, hotel, pick up bags, train station, lunch, train, 9 minute change at Shin-Osaka, train, Nagoya. Phew. I'm getting tired just thinking about it - but still 18!!!!

Nagoya is a game changer.  We were met by three teachers from Toyota Otani, and Mr Onda was there, of course. We then went to the Higashi Betsuin Temple where we were instructed in the protocols of prayer and  heard a brief history of the temple.  Then we proceeded to a tea ceremony.  I'm never sure what is worse, having sit on my legs for the ceremony or the bitter taste of the tea. It is an interesting experience and the temple is magnificent and tranquil at the same time.





Back on the bus to our hotel. Upstairs to change. No time for showers. Back to the bus and off to Otani High School for the 'Welcome Party'.  Once at the school, the students needed to change into their uniforms.  By this time we were about 45 minutes behind schedule. That is not good in a country where even the trains run on time. However, they were, as always, gracious and polite hosts, and the welcome party was wonderful. The students were introduced to their host families, I made a speech in Japanese (badly), the Otani students danced for us and there was a wonderful dinner (along with another tea ceremony).








At 8:10pm, almost an hour late. The party was over and we all eventually headed for our respective homes for the next 8 days.

No comments:

Post a Comment