Standing on the outside looking in (New York)

Hello dear reader,

welcome to post number 158 and a nod to former Australian rockers Cold Chisel for the title.

Today we went to the 9/11 memorial and museum, but first the subway.

One of the two pools of relection at the 9/11 site

We actually set the alarm and got up early so that we could avoid the predicted lengthy queues at 9/11.  Ah, the best laid plans.  We walked down to 1st Ave and into the underground and squeezed onto the platform.  It was unusually crowded.  A train came in, but we couldn't get on board, it was seriously packed.  An announcment came over to say that there was a problem at Morgan Ave, one of the stations on the L line.  Some other things were mentioned, but despite hearing this announcement about a dozen times, we still couldn't understand what was being said. We have often laughed about U.S. citizens who request audio guides to be set to "American" rather than "English" in European tourist spots but this morning, we might as well have been listening to Lithuanian on the subway platform for all the chance we had of actually deciphering what the announcement was trying to explain about the delay on Line L.  

Nine trains came and went before we could get on.  Yes, we probably could have forced our way onto an earlier train, but travelling as a couple meant we both had to get on and that required hand-to-hand combat with the locals for a place in the aluminium sardine can.  By the time we actually boarded a train, we ought to have enjoyed another hour's sleep. At least we were just mildly inconvenienced - there was a guy on the platform, obviously a house painter who was trying to get to a job, carrying some of his tools of trade which were a bit bulky.  He, like us, gave up till the congestion eased and was clearly going to be very late to his place of work today.

You meet all types on the subway.  Today there were Jehovah's Witnesses selling God, Hare Krishnas still channeling 1975, buskers of all varieties: drummers, guitarists, singers (sort of), cellists and, on the second train of the day, a harmonious group of Gospel singers.  It also provides me with an opportunity to watch people and their idiosyncratic fashions.  There was a guy sitting opposite us this morning dressed totally in black.  He had a black cape covering his black pants and top.  The black wedge boots were, well, a woman's style of shoe (not that there's anything wrong with that). His blonde hair was cut in a trendy fashion, shaved at the sides, Shintaro-style bun on top.  Wrists and fingers boasted more jewellery than a Michael Hill Jewellers catelogue, the rings were all major bling in silver, the bracelets were a mixture.  On his lap sat a black bag, the type used to carry a small dog or cat.  Pretty as a picture.

Neck tattoos have long been my favourite which is lucky because they are very popular over here. I've always thought they are a great boon when looking for a job.

The trip home was not a lot different.  We are still no closer to understanding what the problem was with the L line, but we had to let a couple of trains pass by this afternoon too before one came in that we could both lever ourselves into.  It is a difficult call because once you commit, you can't change directions, but there is no guarantee your partner won't be cut off by some pushy local.

The 9/11 Memorial and Museum

Around this time two years ago, Jayne and I were in Japan wrangling students on an exchange program.  During that trip we visited the Hiroshima Museum, an experience that still lives me.  If you want to read the post from that day it can be found here: http://bradnjaynesblog.blogspot.com/2013/10/life-in-fast-lane.html ; it's about half way down the page.  It was with that experience in mind that I approached the 9/11 Museum.  Ultimately, it left me underwhelmed and I'm not totally certain why.  Maybe it was the whole package.

The new Trade Tower

The day hadn't begun well with the subway issues.  We arrived at the museum and were directed to the CityPass line - it was longer than the general admission line and had less windows serving us.  So much for the CityPass claim of getting ahead of the queue.  The line crawled forward and we exchanged our bar-coded CityPass tickets for their tickets.  Seriously.  I turned to go into the doors on my right but was directed elsewhere away from the entrance doors, around the back of the now longer ticket queues to another even longer line to actually get inside.

Just to re-iterate, we had pre-purchased tickets, but had to queue to swap them for other tickets and then had to queue again to get inside.  Makes sense doesn't it? But once inside we still weren't there yet.  Security check.  They take security very seriously in America, particularly at airports.  Well, this was every bit as serious - remove your belt serious.  And then, we were in!  Not quite, we had to line-up again to get the audio guide and that was as organised as the processes we had just survived.  So, 2 hours after leaving East Village we were about to look at the first "artefact".

A rose for one of the victims of 9/11

"No flash photography".  Why not?  We were not photographing delicate paintings from the Renaissance and the light made good photos a challenge.  I apologise if the quality is not there.

Even directions inside were not that clear.  We found the first artefact and turned on the audio guide, so far so good.  That's where the instructions became blurry, we passed through a number of other exhibits that we assumed had their own explanation and we were confused when the talk didn't match what we were looking at.  Finally we twigged, you had to go past everything to 'bed rock' and begin there.

The audio guide was narrated by New York local icon, Robert De Niro and was quite informative, but for all the exhibits and the information presented, the only thing that really tore at my heart was video of the first plane going into the tower.  There were two exhibits that I found to be distasteful and believe were unnecessary (although I'm sure plenty will disagree with me).  The first was a brick chiselled from the wall of Osama bin Laden's hide-out and the second, the shirt of a Navy Seal who was involved in the final raid to capture bin Laden.  These things call into question the purpose of the museum - is it to remember what happened, to remember the sacrifice that so many people made, to remember how an an act of terrorism galvanised a community?  Or is it to finish with the na na na na nah fullstop, we finished on top because bin Laden is dead?

Some of the flags of the 90 countries from which the vicitms came

Fire truck destroyed by the North Tower collapse

Added to my mixed feelings was the lack of respect shown by too many school students who were there and the rudeness and ignorance of adults who were completely unaware of those around them. Ironic isn't it that a museum that should make us think about others was still dominated by those who don't care about others. The museum information guide actually highlights the level of decorum expected for this sombre place but the only enforcement of stated expectation we saw was in relation to the use of flash photography (not mine, I was good).

Metal beams

The last column removed from the site

Nearly 3,000 people lost their lives in the 9/11 attack.  It should never have happened.  There can be no justification for it.  My heart goes out to those who lost friends or relatives and the museum honours them pictorially and in other ways. But it is not a peace filled place.  It was crowded, in parts it was noisy and at times it was in contrast to the reflection pools outside.  Overall, I was just, nonplussed.

Chinatown

Despite the morning delays, we actually arrived back at the apartment much earlier than other days so we had the opportunity to venture out again this afternoon.  We have enjoyed Italian fare aplenty since we came to the States so we both agreed it was time for a gastronomic shift.

Mott Street

If you have been to a Chinatown in your own local city, then you have been to the one in New York too.  A sign saying "Welcome to Chinatown", lots of Asian people, Chinese restaurants and loads on those cheap 'dollar' shops with their glitzy imports that break on the train ride home.

Choosing a restaurant wasn't easy.  We had no local knowledge, it was too early to rely on the numbers in the restaurant, the menus were all relatively similar although price was a big differential. None of the ones that we looked at were particularly cheap.  Then it began to rain so we walked into the restaurant we were standing outside at the time.  I was scared I would melt like the wicked witch of the west if I got wet.

The matriarch was in the doorway. "Table for two?" she asked.  Yes we replied.  She assigned us to a young man who walked us to a table and threw a gesture our way to say 'here it is' and left.  Without stereotyping, I have found on numerous occasions that the subleties of service often elude Chinese people.

Looking in the other direction

Lonely Planet recommended pork buns, so that was a no brainer, followed by spring rolls, beef with spicy house sauce (sauce made from houses - who'd have thought that?), sesame chicken and rice. No wine because the senior waiter came over when I was looking at the wine list and said "no" and turned the page back to beer.  We had beer.  So subtle.

The food was fine.  We probably ordered too much and almost ate it all.  And the rain continued outside.  It wasn't as heavy as has been predicted but they keep altering the forecast.  This is due to cyclone Joaquin which is not moving very fast at the moment.  That's OK with us.

Into the rain, down into the subway onto a train.  Change for the L line and ... OMG, the people - the platform was packed again.  This time we squeezed onto the first train all up-close and personal with those around us.  Safely home after a stop at the laundromat.  4.5 kg (10lbs) of clothes washed and folded for $10.  Why would you have a washing machine?

Today's news

As I finish writing this I am watching the news.  America is such a wonderful country and yet, there are times when I doubt the general intelligence of the population.  Evidence: Donald Trump being the front running Republican in the presidential race.  

Seriously, today there was another school shooting.  At this point, 10 people have lost their lives with at least as many injured.  When will this stop?  This year nearly 10,000 people have lost their lives through gun violence, more than 3 time as many people as were killed at 9/11. The National Rifle Association will ensure the blame is deflected and guns stay available. Self-interest reigns.

Until next time.