Rollin' on the river (Strahan)

Well not so much us as rolling on the river (thanks Creedence), but the Huon Pine logs they used to extract from the wilderness in this area. Strahan is on the west coast of Tasmania on the shores of Macquarie Harbour. It is a pretty little village that survives today on tourism. We are doing our bit for the economy.

It was an unusually early start this morning; we had to be at breakfast by 7:30 - I know, first world problems. It doesn't worry me gentle reader - I was awake long before the alarm sounded. Although the possums scampering around on the wooden verandah last night as they were coming and going from their abode did put somewhat of a dent in a good night's sleep. It sounded like a couple of little children were running around chasing each other. All good fun if you were a possum.

Breakfast was a tad stressful; not for us, but for the two people serving because all the house guests arrived within a few minutes of each other. We are the only Australians here of the twelve guests and the rest are predominantly from Europe, Germany and Holland, although there are a couple from the US as well.

After successfully negotiating breakfast (despite our stressed host mixing the order up twice - one too

The lighthouse at Hells Gate

few OJs and then one too many croissants), it was time to walk into the village and board the catamaran for a day trip around Macquarie Harbour and up into the famed Gordon River. Unlike the SS Minnow, our tour was scheduled for 6 hours and thankfully the seas didn't get rough. In fact it was quite calm, even at Hells Gate. Although it is easy to see how such a small entrance to the harbour could be quite treacherous in the wrong conditions. Moving through Hells Gate to the open ocean was uneventful until we turned broadside to the waves to head back in and a number of unattended teas and coffees literally hit the deck (did you see what I did there? I grabbed a cliche and ... oh ...ok).

Fish in their natural habitat having their food sprayed in

Back inside the harbour, we passed a few 'shacks' on the northern headland that are now used as weekenders. Access is by barge only and it looked like a little too much effort to go on a holiday there. From there we visited the fish farms - you know the ones made famous by a recent 4 Corners program. It was explained to us that is the fish's natural habitat. And that they are fed a natural algae from Queensland to make their flesh red. Natural? Hmmm. Tasmanian fish living in cages with thousands of other fish eating dog kibble and algae from Queensland. Natural? Yep. I think I might have the steak for dinner.

The penetentiary

Next stop was Sarah Island. This is a fascinating study into human nature and motivation. Remember the times - this was a penal colony and those that were sent here were repeat offenders. There are legendary stories of attempted escapes, floggings where men died, hangings and also of successful escapes where cannibalism was the only way to survive. Or those who managed to fight their way through the bush to Hobart (OMG the drive was enough for me) only to be re-captured and returned to the island. Good times. After a change at the top there was a significant shift in statistics on the island and floggings almost disappeared. I can hear the question: why? Well it's an age old answer. Money. they had established a successful ship building yard on the island and needed the co-operation and help of the convicts to make it work. So, an interesting and very successful work place agreement was achieved, at least until 1833 when decision makers from the north island brought things to a close.

The Gordon River

Following Sarah Island there was a trip down the legendary Gordon River to a stop where you could walk on a 400 metre raised platform walk and look at the forest close up. If you were fortunate and travelling in a small group, you may have been able to hear some wildlife, birds for instance. We were not so fortunate. Way too many people on a small walk way, some who had no idea of what they were looking for/at. And our cruise was significantly undersubscribed. The mind boggles.

After the 'rain forest walk' it was back to Strahan and, to while away the hours, they showed us a DVD on the The Oldest Living Tasmanian. It was supposed to be about the Huon Pine but I think it was really more about glorifying the old pine cutters themselves. There is no questioning it was a difficult way to survive, being away from family for four months at a stretch, not to mention the cold, the wet, the leeches and the hard work. I guess I struggle with the retrospective understanding of what they were doing to the environment. It was interesting to hear their story and their hardships and their perspective from the recent days looking back to the 30s and 40s.

We were back in Strahan soon enough and went for a walk further up the cove to check out a restaurant as a possible dinner site. Seriously, for all the talk of Tasmanian produce I can't recall seeing Tasmanian salmon anywhere. Yes, there is the poor alternative of ocean trout but it's not the same. In fact, even in a small village like Strahan that lives on tourism, they seem to have succumbed to the popular trends in food. Every second dish has a Japanese influence. Ho hum. So, it was back to the pub for dinner tonight and it was more than adequate. Again, though, they seem to want to do more. Master Chef and MKR you have a lot to answer for.

Ormiston House

And that is probably enough for today. We have returned from the pub and are ensconced in our room and are reading in preparation for the coming adventures.

Until I have a seriously good internet connection ... I still have no phone. OPTUS!!!!!!!!