Cigarettes and coffee (Assisi)

Have I mentioned that everyone smokes over here? A carton of cigarettes at the airport in Abu Dhabi cost US$33 and, not that I was paying particular attention, but a packet of cigarettes in Italy is around €4 - 5. We had to move tables this morning while we were having our coffee because the couple next to us were both smoking and the smoke cloud was choking us. Hence today's title, Coffee and Cigarettes by Otis Redding from way back in 1966. Classic. Coffee and cigarettes was my staple breakfast for many years through the late 70s into the 80s and beyond if the truth be told. But not now. Coffee maybe, cigarettes, no.

Random photo walking to the Basilica St Francis

While Assisi is very relaxing, if you are not into churches and frescoes and reliefs there is little else to do. Except bushwalking and we know all know that rules Jayne out. At breakfast this morning, Jayne counted the number of Catholic churches and it is around 17. We are not being specific because it would be easy to miss one or two. With a population of just over 28,000 that is one church for every 1,669 people and that is not taking into account religion.

It's another beautiful day here, sunny and cloudless with an expected top of 28°. There is a slight breeze taking the edge off the heat. We are kicking back today and just taking it easy before tomorrow's transit day to Florence and back to the big city lifestyle. The most onerous task for the day is to find a place to eat lunch. There are so many dining options in Assisi, more than you would expect by walking through the town. Most of the hotels have restaurants attached and then there are little cafes hidden in the winding streets. I have identified a couple to check out. One is supposed to have views over the town below, so we might try for there. They are both down the other end of the village, but we need something to walk off the food today.

After carefully researching the many, many options I chose a restaurant that had stunning views across the Umbrian valley. It was of course, at the opposite end of the village. When we arrived the door was closed and there was a sign on the door explaining an emergency in the kitchen had caused them to close for the day. Not to worry, I had a back up restaurant just around the corner that had a lovely outdoor section shaded by vines with views across the lawn to the Basilica of St Francis. Around the corner we go, the al fresco option is locked off and the interior looks more focused on catering to the gelato crowd than those who wish to eat. In fact, it resembled a McDonald's gelato place. Again, I was not dining there.

The Temple of Minerva in the Piazza del Commune

Third choice was, ironically, the closest to our apartment. Ah well. La Lanterna had received mixed reviews on TripAdvisor but it was in a quiet, shaded  laneway. Back up the hill, across the Piazza del Commune to La Lanterna and a table for two, outside, in the shade, being cooled by a gentle breeze. A local wine to wash down a local dish, ravioli of boar, while Jayne had tagliatelli porcini and a caprese salad. It was very pleasant sitting in the laneway and this was made even moreso when every group with children that wandered up the hill opted to eat inside the restaurant. Winner.

A relief in Basilica San Rufino

After lunch we went in search of religious souvenirs for Jayne's team. A simple task because just about every shop sold them. Then it was to the gelateria for dessert and a visit to Basilica San Rufino on the last part of the walk home. This was the church where both St Francis and St Clare were baptised and it was the first one I have been in where you can are permitted to take photos.

I haven't written much about our accommodation except to show you the view from the balcony, dear reader. The apartment itself is two bedrooms, one bathroom and a living area/kitchen. The living area has a massive old-style fireplace which would throw some significant heat when lit. The apartment is in one of the beautiful stone buildings that adorn many of the pictures of Assisi. The stone walls, stone floors and double glazed windows seem to keep the temperature at a constant and comfortable 20°. The afternoon breeze probably helps as well. The double glazing, I imagine, is for the winter.

Our street

The laneway around the corner

Tomorrow is a transit day and another train trip. This time from Assisi to Florence. It should take about 2 and 1/2 hours if the train is on time, so we should be safely ensconced in Firenze by mid-afternoon. There may be a blog post tomorrow if I write on the train, however, if I read ...