Waterfalls (Mitchell Falls/Punami-Uunpuu, Little Mertens Falls, Big Mertens Falls, WA)

The day commenced dear reader with the sternest warning to date about the difficulty of the walk, sorry, hike, in front of us. As usual I had my doubts about the accuracy of the alarm bells being sounded, but it was sufficient for three of our group, Jayne included, to opt out of the walk. Instead they would arrive on the plateau, where we were to have lunch, by helicopter, and return to the car park in the same fashion.

We began early to beat the heat and were bouncing around in the truck by 7am. The first part of the walk is quite steady on an open sand track through heath or across areas of rock. It is well signposted by metal posts that have a depiction of a Wandjina on top. It would be difficult to get lost. There was a variety of wildflowers and evidence, from tracks to scat, of the animals that live in the area.

Follow the spirit ancestors.

Our first destination was Little Mertens Falls. I am uncertain as to how it acquired the name. There was enough water for a reasonable flow and the drop was not insubstantial. Perhaps it was because the next waterfall is named Big Mertens Waterfall.

The pool below the falls.

The falls.

Below Little Mertens Falls and behind the falls is a series of rock overhangs that contain depictions of Wandjinas, messages to denote the area as a place of rest and other pieces of art that relay details about the first inhabitants of the area. The water falling from the pool above kept the space quite cool and it was obviously a shelter from the sun as well a classroom.

The crossed legs showing a place to rest.

Hands showing the visitors and Wandjina.

A depiction of a basket used to explain its manufacture.

The sun was quite strong by this stage and the shade and the water made for pleasant relief from the walk. It also afforded the opportunity to play around with the camera.

Not bad without my glasses.

After the respite of the falls, we made our way back to the track and re-commenced the journey to Mitchell Falls/Punami-Uunpuu. The next water crossing was at the top of Big Mertens Falls. It was certainly a much larger event than the previous waterfall and there was a substantial drop to pool below. The gorge itself was quite narrow. 

Much more impressive than its little brother.

Most of the walking was now in full sun and it had definitely warmed up. Hydration was important as we meandered our way across the plateau, passing other Aboriginal rock art sites and numerous wildflowers. It really is unique country and at every turn there is a spectacular view framed by blue sky or rock formations or tranquil pools and natural vegetation.

The plateau soon opened out and the vegetation disappeared as the raging waters of the wet would tolerate no stronghold on the rock. Mitchell Falls/Punami-Uunpuu is a dramatic and eye-catching in every way. I don't understand why Paul McCartney warned people not to chase waterfalls in his 1980 song Waterfalls. It is not possible for me to resist. The sight and sound of any falls is captivating and mesmerising. The falls are four separate drops and you can understand why the Wunambal people are/were drawn to this area.

The first drop.

The last part of this walk was a water crossing. It was far enough back from the falls not to pose a problem except for slippage. Although the dip would have been welcome, cameras, phone and boots were not items we would prefer to have wet. A wet-bag was provided for those less certain on their feet and we were advised not to remove our socks because it makes gripping the slippery rocks much easier.

Heading down to the water crossing. 

Crossing negotiated, it was time to re-unite with the group members who had flown in and enjoy lunch in the shade overlooking the plateau and falls. We walked along the top of the plateau to the cliff edge to enable more complete photos of the falls to be taken, showing the four different levels.

Who doesn't love a waterfall?

While the plateau is an expansive area of generally flat rock, seating spots and shade were at a premium because we were sharing the space with an APT cruise group and a rival land tour company group. Waiting to take the chopper to the top of the Falls, unavoidably, Jayne had become acquainted with several members of the land tour who, led by a formidable lady, let's call her Irena. They occupied their wait time by discussing a wide variety of gripes about their experience thus far. First and foremost, they were singularly unimpressed with the condition of the roads - they had not been prepared for the rough ride that they were being forced to endure. Laughable really, this is remote country and nothing happens easily or quickly.

Next the quality of the two guides' driving was scrutinised and found to be a contributing factor to their discomfort. They also questioned the frequency of breaks, deciding their safety was being compromised by driving stints that were too long. Finally, they were also not happy that they had been made to come to the helicopter landing area at the same time as the walking party set out. They should have been able to stay at the lodge until the appointed time for the flight to the plateau. Not sure who would have been driving the vehicle since both guides were required to accompany the hiking group.

Stunning scenery in very direction.

Irena had just begun to analyse the upcoming itinerary, offering her considered assessment of potential sources of future discontent, when one of their party was assisted back to the waiting area after the hike had proven too much. The lady was quite distressed about her poor judgement of her capacity to complete the hike. Ironically, Irena took charge of the situation, offering her comfort and wisdom about adopting a positive attitude to the lady's unsuccessful attempt - apparently negative thoughts just breed more negativity that helps no one ...

Meanwhile, on top of the plateau, post lunch it was time for a swim and a chance to locate the little wallaby that lives amongst the plateau rocks. It usually makes an appearance after the crowds have thinned, to scavenge for any edible scraps that have been left behind.

Petrogale - brush-tailed wallaby.

Getting into the water was easy enough but the rocks were all covered with algae and were slippery wherever you tried to put a foot. The water was quite shallow and subsequently warmer than anywhere we had swum to date.

Our ride home.

It didn't take long to dry off in the sun and shade was a definite requirement as we waited for our turn in the helicopter to be transported back to the car park and bus. The trip lasted only 6 minutes and gave you an excellent view of the track we walked in, past the Merton Falls. 

Merton Falls on the left, Mitchell on the right.

Even more spectacular from the air.

Interestingly, the choppers did not have doors in the rear section which made photography quite simple, if a little hair raising. 

Back at the Wilderness Lodge, after a shower, it was time to wind down with a drink at the bar before dinner. We were all sitting around chatting and trying our luck with the wifi roulette when a massive black bull trotted through the campsite. There are many wild cattle in the area and this dominant male was just letting us know this was his place. There was no argument from me.

A flower on the kapok tree.

Until next time.