2023/11/18

Leader of the pack (Siem Reap, Cambodia)

Here we are, dear reader. We have reached the end of our 17 day APT journey. There are but two remaining experiences for us to share before we part company.

This morning is a Freedom of Choice excursion. Unusually, I found the options rather limiting. A 2 hour ride in a horse cart? Not sure my back could withstand that. A shopping trip? We're in Siem Reap for another 3 days so that isn't necessary. A traditional Khmer massage? We had a spa treatment on the ship and could organise one here after everyone else has departed. A cooking class? Tempting but no. A cycle ride through the countryside? Possibly, but that's a me-thing, Jayne wasn't interested. That left ... wait for it ... drum roll ... the quad biking experience. Why not. We signed up. As did many others. It was the largest of the groups. I want to be the Leader of the pack. Goodness, all the way back to 1964 with the Shangri-Las.

And away we go.

With so many activities, there was staggered start to the day. We were leaving at 8:30am. Quite civilised compared to yesterday morning. The quad bike centre was about 20 minutes out of town and the time passed quickly because our guide was practising to be a stand-up comedian. He was quite amusing. At one point he remarked that we all spoke very good English. "First time in Cambodia"? he enquired and was met with many loud statements in the affirmative. "Me too," he quipped. "I born here and never leave. So my first time too." And so it went.

The rice paddy of a wealthy family.

We arrived at the centre and had to sign indemnity forms. It actually indemnified the operators for negligence. Not sure it would stand up at home, but here ... Then it was time to get kitted up. Plastics bags were placed around your shoes. Mud, it was explained. No need for me, I was wearing my hiking boots. Then masks and helmets were allocated and we waited our turn to complete two test laps with a supervisor sitting behind us. No thumbs up, no solo ride. Jayne opted to have an instructor drive her around the course.


Constructing a house complete with elephants.

Everyone sat astride their steed for the morning and we were away. Predictably we hadn't gone 100 metres when one of my favourite problem people was flagged down to suffer the humiliation of being moved to a bike driven by an instructor. It was difficult not to enjoy the moment. Karma, I believe.

Cambodia mixes up its land use.

The ride/drive I know not which verb to use, continued without incident. Through many deep puddles, quagmires of mud, beside rice paddies, swamps, fields, housing construction sites, past waving children to the next village. There we stopped in line outside a temple. Well, they are everywhere. I got off my bike and walked over to Jayne to be told to leave my helmet with my bike. In the 2 minutes that had elapsed, the people on the quads behind me had taken the opportunity to usurp my noble steed and move themselves up the line one place. Really? FFS. Childish. Once a coloniser, always a coloniser. I walked to the end of the line and placed my helmet on the last bike. Whatever.

A temple at the village.

The local village, had, you'll never guess, a market. We were offered a fresh coconut to drink which we both declined. Not a fan. had one too many coconuts in Malaysia when I was still working. Then we were escorted across the road and walked the length of the market. As usual it was a mixture of fresh food, clothes and other necessities. Then it was time for the return journey.

The temple wall.

Back on the bikes, I tried to drop back to stay as far behind the incompetent usurpers as possible. Their lack of expertise and seeming fear to cross every puddle or pothole made that an impossible task. It was still good fun and I would certainly do it again. 


The market.

Back at the bike centre, the others had their plastic bags removed from their feet, we rehydrated (water only), and wiped as much dust from our clothes and belongings as possible. When it was time to board the bus, some people actually ran. One must assume to gain a seat they believed was superior in position to others. I thought I was on a Year 8 excursion.


The afternoon was free until the Apsara dance performance and farewell dinner this evening. Tonight was a "free pour" night. That always makes me laugh because there is generally one person responsible for serving the alcohol and there were around 70 of us. It would be difficult to drink too much.

The musicians.

The dance performance and accompanting traditional music was held in the ballroom. The dances were similar to those we'd seen on the ship and at the ODA school. Except this time it was not students but professionals. Watching the performance proved challenging, even from the third row. Why, you ask, dear reader? Mobile phones being used as video cameras being held up to capture the whole dance. Jayne was constantly shifting her chair to try to gain a clear view. Is it really that difficult to be aware of others?

Traditional Aspara dancers.

The boys are fishing for wives. Not very PC.

The Monkey King.

After the entertainment, Long provided his last not brief briefing, once again relating departure details. Repetitive? Definitely. Unnecessary? Not at all. There was at least one amongst us who responded to so many questions with, "I don't know". What time is your flight? IDK. What airline are flying with? IDK. What activity did you choose? IDK. Do you have a Cambodian visa? IDK. Frustrating. Amusing at first. Then not so much. Also, never happy, with any experience, dinner, accommodation. Good one Irena (if you know you know, dear reader).

Being next to the door, I almost made it out first, only to pipped at the post by one of those who always has to be first. It did not, however, stop us scoring a table for six and being able to sit with the people we chose.

I'm sure dinner was lovely but I really don't remember it. We chatted away and enjoyed the company and were one of the last groups to vacate the restaurant. It was for many the last night in Siem Reap, with the first people leaving at 5:30am the next day and then a slow trickle of departures after that.

Until next time.





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