Palace (Vienna, Austria, part 1)

Ah, Vienna. A return visit, dear reader, because we did not have sufficient time here in 2022. Being the second time around also meant not having to see some of the more obvious tourist spots because we've already ticked that box.

This post will cover two days because the pictures will do the talking for me. Unless you would like a history lesson? No? Ok. There are a few interesting anecdotes to share along the way. 

We spent almost the entire day in the Hofburg precinct. It is about a 25 minute walk from our flat as our host insisted on calling it. It was Sunday and there was definitely something happening in the adjacent Volksgarten. We'll check that out on the way home.

Looks like a good spot to make a speech.

The Hofburg is a massive sprawling complex that contains the Sisi Museum, monuments, statues and a church among other things. It is naturally home to the Hofburg Palace. Sadly we were unable to go inside. Hitler delivered his speech from the balcony of the palace following the Anschluss in 1938. He always did have an eye for the grand moment. A pity he was a delusional narcissist. Comparisons anyone?

We spent the next few hours in the Imperial Treasury looking at gowns, crowns, jewels, church pieces, riding crops, swords and so, so much more. Sadly photography was limited, not so much by the darkened rooms but by glass cases surrounding the artefacts. Taking a photo that wasn't destroyed by reflections became the challenge for the day.

A series of royal riding crops, y'know.

A fancy hat.

Something for the smoking room.

The royal crib.

A very large emerald.

The spear of destiny. Constantine!

The next stop was the Prunksthall. In English, a state hall and in this case, the National Library. I haven't been this gobsmacked since walking into an overly gilded and decorated church. Just wow. Antique books from floor to domed ceiling. Well almost to the ceiling. Timber shelves. Timber ladders. Frescos everywhere you turned. It was just astonishing. Curiously, it fails as a library, you can't borrow the books.

This

is

a

library. Books!

From one extravagant building to another: Augustinerkirche. No further comment required.

They love a chandelier.

It was time to commence the walk home through the Burggarten and then to the Volksgarten and Maria Theresa Platz, that vast space in between two museums. The Volksgarten seemed to be enjoying some sort of music festival. Not for people for our advanced years. We kept moving.

Sunshine = Burggarten.

As you can imagine, dear reader, all this walking and standing and reading plaques and listening to audio guides takes its toll. As we approached the Museumsquartier, we decided it was time for a refreshing beer. Aside from the numerous museums, the interior courtyard houses several cafés. Just the place for a beer, some people watching and research about the museums that surround us.

The entrance to the Museumsquartier.

The wind whipped up as we were enjoying our beers and people watching. The viewing spectacle was enhanced by hats being chased across the courtyard. The nearer the former hat wearer moved to the hat, the further the wind moved it away. It was as if the wind gusts were timed by some hidden comedian. As the man at the next table picked up his beer, the wind gusted again. What was to be his first sip through the copious froth became a salvage mission as he wiped the foam from his face, shoulder and sleeve.

Later we watched an older couple (like really old, older than us) who were bicycling their way around the sites, arrive in the middle of the courtyard. They peddled to a stop, dismounted, had an animated discussion with finger pointing and then the male indicated to his better half that he was walking off and left her with both bikes. Her response was to calmly survey the area, remove her helmet and light up a smoke. Eventually her absconding partner returned (not sure from where), helmet reclaimed, smoke finished and off they peddled out of sight. Happy holidays!

After reviewing the museum options, we chose to continue our walk home to wine and dine on the balcony, chasing the elusive clear shot of the woodpecker.

Yes. It happened. 

The Austrian winter announced its imminent return the next day, sneering at those who had become comfortable with the two days of warmth and sunshine. The cloud was back, accompanied by a cold breeze. Regardless, we charted our course for Belvedere.

We accidently discovered the Naschmarkt.

The Belvedere Palace or Palaces are quite grand. The upper sits on top of the hill and the lower palace is, you guessed it, down the slope. In between is a garden and a huge water feature into which stupid people throw money.

It's a Monet. Looks good from a distance.

We commenced on high. Once I had rescued the tickets from my phone. When I booked, I was only permitted to purchase 1 ticket. Prior to the 'checkout', I could continue shopping and did so, to discover that I couldn't buy a second ticket for the same entry time as the previous one. Who designs these sites?

The Belvedere Upper from the Lower.

Anyway, we turned up at the door together. Tickets scanned. In we go. It was very crowded. There are two floors of art works, some contemporary, some more classical. Some you were allowed to photograph, some you were not. Curiously, it was some of the more recent works that did not allow photography. Tbh they were pretty shit anyway and I didn't want to photograph them.

The first artwork I was permitted to photograph.

We worked our way across the top floor through each room and then moved to the first floor to repeat the process. It was here the more historic and famous works resided. A gallery of Klimt for instance and that famous painting of Napoleon on the rearing horse. We arrived in this room to find it packed and with little oxygen. The reason? A tour group from Asia. Every individual had to have their photo taken in front of Napoleon. And then have it retaken if they weren't happy with it.

Loved the title: Naked youth standing between two rocks.

If you can close up ... RBF

Napoleon. He was actually on a donkey, but ...

Klimt.

This group had literally commandeered the room and the artwork. Everyone else sidled in and worked around the group, attempting not to photobomb them. I do not understand the 'selfie' culture, of which this is a part. Anymore than how people could be so ignorant of those around them. Fortunately for my blood pressure, their tour leader called them away. Most followed dutifully. Some stayed for further photo ops that resulted in them sharing their frame with me and other people. Enough is enough.

I liked this guy's work. Egon Schiele.

As beautiful and expansive as these palaces are, nothing compares to Versailles. The gardens, which needed weeding and mowing, would be a lovely place to enjoy a summer's day, but they aren't that impressive. Schönbrun also was far more interesting and eye catching.

Down through the sculptured garden we trundled. The water feature had water, but wasn't fountaining.

From the top because the water is not flowing.

Belvedere lower also held art exhibitions, access to which was gained by traversing through some of the restored palace rooms. 

It needs more gold, or mirrors.

The horse stables contained an exhibition of religious iconography. Through particular periods of history, artists and goldsmiths were kept in work by the varying churches. 

The Orangerie contained artworks highlighting a pioneering woman, Broncia Koller-Pinell, who not only painted herself, but sponsored the careers of other fringe artists, even in the face of Nazi threats. There are no photos. I can't recall whether this was through regulation, disinterest or lighting.

An installation outside the café. Our reflections were there.

Thankfully the Lower Belvedere also contained a very nice café, which provided a well-earned rest and a decent coffee before we headed off to our next destination, KarlsKirche. 

A memorial fountain on the way to St Charles.

Named as the finest Baroque church in Vienna, and resting place of the famed, if controversial composer Bruckner, we were keen to see inside, until we saw the entry fees, €10 per person. Seriously? It's a church and I've seen a few in my time. I'm not sure if any were worth that much money. Unless entry came with eternal life or forgiveness. We were not the only ones to baulk at the cost as we witnessed others come to the entry and decide to walk away.

KarlsKirche from the front.

The rain commenced so it was time to suspend our sightseeing and head up the hill for home. Like most of the rain we have experienced in Europe, it has been light drizzle. At best it is just aggravation value. However, a long walk can ensure you are wet through. Fortunately this was not the case for us on the walk home.

No idea. Tried to photograph it in '22.

Dinner was at a traditional Viennese restaurant, Weinschenke, less than 10 minutes walk from our door. The rain recommenced as we entered the street, this time a little heavier. We were prepared with umbrella and yellow jacket.

The staff at the restaurant were delightful. Umbrella and jacket stowed we settled in for a gin and tonic while we perused the menu. A traditional Viennese restaurant calls for traditional Viennese food and wine. Schnitzel and Tafelspitz with a Grüner Veltliner.

If you at out one night in Vienna, you can probably go without food for three days. OMG the serves are huge. My schnitzel and potato salad (hey, it's thing here) were served on separate plates. Jayne's Tafelspitz was almost as big. I struggled to finish; but I did. 

The rain had disappeared for our walk home. In truth I would have preferred a longer walk to move some of that food.

And you've made it this far so you must want the song reference in the title. Palace by Sam Smith from 2017, not about physical palaces, but hey, it's a great song.

Until next time.