Above the Clouds (Serpentine Gorge to Chalet Dam via Counts Point)

It was a 7am start for a breakfast of porridge or muesli for those who wanted it. Or toast cooked over the fire pit for Dave and me. It had been a wet and windy night which kept the temperature up and everyone in their tent. In the morning, the breeze was still fresh around the fire.

Mountain Hakea.

Lucas was to remain in camp today to prepare dinner under Jonny’s tutelage, as we headed off to Section 8 of the Larapinta Trail. It was a 30-minute drive to Serpentine Gorge, the beginning of today’s walk. Much like yesterday, the trail undulated but climbed slowly into the cloud. The view was soon lost and we walked in the ‘not quite rain’ of the cloud. Despite the loss of the view, out over the Larapinta, spirits were high and we chatted as we slowly ascended towards Counts Point.

Clear views to begin.

The wind was a constant companion and consequently, I had issues with my camera battery. The cold weather not only causes the power to drain more quickly than usual, it also results in the intermittent functioning of the button that allows the photo to be taken. It is frustrating. In the first instance, I removed the battery and placed it in my pocket. At least it would work first time when reinstalled.

The plant used to make 1080 poison.

We paused occasionally for snack breaks and to enjoy the ‘white out’. There were plenty of plants and flowers to be photographed, just no views back across the gorge. Packs were dropped for the final ascent to the signposted Counts Point. Apparently, it is a sign that is regularly vandalised to rename the lookout. Ah, so witty.

What a view.

The wind dropped as we closed in on the Point. The rain, or mist was unchanged. The seat, strategically placed to ensure the view could be enjoyed, was covered in water and looked out on more mist. Somewhere out there was Mt Sonder, the highest peak on the Larapinta Trail and our destination for a sunrise walk, later in the week.

Enjoy the view? Yeah, nah.

The cloud cleared once, albeit briefly on the descent and stayed with us until we were below the cloud line. That didn’t stop us seeing some unusual sights. At one point a walker appeared out of the mist and stood aside for our group to pass. He was a picture of sartorial elegance in a singlet and shorts, wearing a headband, walking stick in each hand and full pack on his back. Madness. ‘How are you going?’ Dave greeted the wacko walker as we passed. ‘Slowly,’ he grunted in reply.

Pretty, but I have no idea.

Finally, out of the cloud, we paused for lunch and a well-earned rest. Declan prepared the feast: wraps, fresh capsicum, carrot, beetroot, ham and assorted spreads like hummus and relish. Rumour has it Dave even ate something green after the regular wraps were snapped up, leaving only the spinach-infused variety. Back on the trail, we continued on a gently undulating descent to the junction of Sections 8 and 9. The self-guided walkers had set up numerous tents and at least one group was camping in the shelter.

Today's title you ask dear reader. Above the Clouds by Paul Mac. Although in reality we were in the clouds not above them.

Not so much above the clouds as in them.

We had some time to kill because we hadn’t spent much time at Counts Point so Declan walked us up to the Chalet Dam. It was about 500m from the campground. The dam was built in the late 1950s/early 1960s to service the nearby Serpentine Chalet. Improvements in the road from Alice to Glen Helen Gorge meant it was no longer necessary to break up the trip and the Chalet fell into disrepair from lack of patronage. Or a lack of water. Turns out the bright sparks who installed the dam did so at a small cliff-side rivulet that only runs when it rains. The majority of the year it is a dry wall that filled nothing. The ‘dam’ wall remains.

The Chalet Dam.

The road into Serpentine Gorge was quite rough and we required 4WD pick up in a troop carrier. We dawdled the 1.5km to the pickup point, discussing the day’s events. Despite the weather closing out the view, everyone was positive and had enjoyed the walk. Dave may have been an exception as his blisters were making themselves felt, despite his feet being heavily taped. My knee was also reminding me that it wasn’t happy with the descent.

The cloud cleared.

We were back at camp by 5pm and sitting around the fire pit, enjoying afternoon tea. Dinner tonight was goat curry with curried veggies, rice and papadums. An excellent way to finish the day. The cloud was clearing and a smattering of stars teased us as we drifted off to bed.

The team at the top.