From one iconic Australian rock band to another dear reader. This time it is Cold Chisel and their 1982 classic Bow River. The title came easily after reading a map of the area at the Durack Homestead where Bow river was listed in large font.
At some stage we were informed that this is not a cruise but an expedition. As such, early mornings and long days were to be expected. A cruise is a holiday where you sit around all day. So joining the a 7:20 am queue for the bus should not be considered out of the ordinary.
Our driver was Kevin, a blow-in from Cairns who lives in Kununarra and works for Triple J Tours during the dry season. In the wet he returns to Cairns where the summer temperatures and humidity make the Kimberley wet season look like some form of punishment inflicted on those who cannot escape. The drive took us through Wyndham - at least three versions of it. Total population less than 1000. Everything that operated here at some point has closed. We noted there was land for sale at New Wyndham, no price listed. There were some large bronze statues that were positioned off the main road and a replica crocodile (on the main road) and that was pretty much it. No road side cafés or any infrastructure to support tourism or the local population for that matter. In fact the main building worthy of commentary, apart from the now closed pub that was to have been renovated but they ran out of money, was the police station!
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| A random snap of the river to break up the text |
The drive to Kununarra absorbed about an hour of the day. The road was excellent and virtually brand new. Kevin provided background chatter, sorry, information, about the area. We covered the incessant burning of the area by different groups and the negative impact it was having on the environment. He talked of the Ord River scheme and the benefits it has brought to WA, if not the residents of Wyndham. The Duracks, the 'original' pioneering family were mentioned all the way down to Kimberley Durack, the man credited with the concept and the political agitation for the Ord River dam.
The only mention of the indigenous population was the high % of inhabitants at Wyndham and the first Patrick Durack's faithful servant, Pumpkin, who had accompanied him from Queensland. Apparently the Duracks treated the indigenous population better than most because Patrick left Pumpkin his gold watch when he died.
Warning: political statement. He left him his gold watch! The only concern I had about the day and all we heard was the lack or original, authentic indigenous voice. Once again Australia seems to create some apologist perspective or a cleansing of history by referencing the first inhabitants through kind treatment when the inverse was true in the vast majority of situations. Ethnic cleansing might have been a better term and WA continued some seriously dubious policies under the guise of protecting the original inhabitants well into last century. Australians seem to be embarrassed by the continued existence of Aborigines and will probably continue so to do until we actually own the real history of this country which may involve a story of pioneering bravery but also needs to acknowledge the almost complete dispossession and destruction of the indigenous culture.
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| The diversion dam wall at Kununarra |
Kununarra is unremarkable. It has everything you would expect of a country town that is trying to develop itself into something bigger and better. The Ord River scheme, in striking contradiction, is remarkable. It is a significant story of achievement and given government was involved, it makes the story even more remarkable. By way of contrast, look at the Murray-Darling Basin and the incompetent management and exploitation of that area.
The Ord scheme created two dams which have sustained the life of the river through the dry season, ensured constant water flow and supported agricultural development resulting in the continued growth of industry in the area. The hydro electric plant at the base of the dam wall at Lake Argyle delivers 85% of the areas' power and delivered the closure of the diesel power generator - an environmental and economic win. Beyond this is a haven it has created for wildlife from fresh water crocodiles (the harmless ones) to an abundance of bird life and around 26 species of fish- all native to Australia! What no carp???
The boat trip up the river to the dam wall at Lake Argyle was magical. But I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
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| Little Corellas |
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| A darter drying its wings |
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| A freshie basking in the sun |
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| A rock wallaby watching us float past |
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| Little fruit bats |
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| The dam wall at Lake Argyle |
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| Lake Argyle |
The bus ride back to Wyndham was much the same as the trip down. Dylan our driver (he was also our captain on the river with an amazing encyclopedic knowledge of the system, its flora and fauna) provided further information. We stopped at the Durack Homestead, a building removed from the floor of the dam, before flooding, and eventually rebuilt well above the water line. It was unremarkable in all aspects - what it was, what it represented and as a museum it didn't do the job either. The only mention of the indigenous population came with a couple of photos of a wedding and the headstone of Pumpkin. Let's keep pretending black history is unimportant. I was not the only traveller to make that point.
Back home, we dined on Deck 4 with Ken and Moya. Dinner is a tad more formal on Deck 4. It is 5 courses with wine and all the usual trappings. It was another early night. I had to be up at 5:30 in the morning to climb King George Twin Falls.
Until next time.
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