2019/08/12

Nothing much happens (Darwin and into the sea)

Today's title is courtesy of Ben Lee from the late '90s and is a nod to yesterday as much as it reflects Sunday in Darwin. After a terminally long travel day we slept very well. I am uncertain as to whether that was a reflection of travel exhaustion or the ice cold Kirin I had prior to bed. Regardless I woke very much refreshed and ready for the excitement of the day. Except it's Sunday morning in Darwin, a city better known for starting late and kicking on.

We stayed here at the Novotel in 2008 when we attended a conference. Not much has changed. It is looking a little tired, like the tropical heat has beaten it into submission and could probably do with a make-over. At the very least a gardener is required to bring the Devil's Ivy back to life. It is flourishing in some areas, in others, like outside our room, it is struggling for life against the ravages of scale.

It was time for breakfast, something we enjoyed in the Smith Street Mall last time we were here. It is a 5 minute stroll and it is a beautiful cloudless day, around 25˚ and breezy. Not quite like Sydney yesterday, but strong enough to send café billboards careering through the al fresco areas of the mall to the amusement of the breakfast crowd

Fresh juice and good coffee. Yum. Simple and yet difficult to find in the one place in Sydney. After breakfast we wandered through the few shops that were open. I am after a new Aboriginal flag T-shirt, one without writing on it. I purchased my current shirt hereon the last trip but it was not going to be replaced today. The search continues. There were plenty of the CU in the NT shirts and I was tempted, but no.

Mid-morning I decided I needed to have my hair cut before the cruise. I popped down to the Hair Dude. No appointment, sit and wait your turn. Remember those days dear reader? Checking out the girls in the Pix and People magazines? No? You're too young ... oh, sorry. You've missed an experience and a significant right of passage for Australian males. Not to mention the mirror into mirror experience, mis en abyme. My barber was a young 20 something from, wait for it, Cherrybrook, New South Wales. I know. I travel all that way to let a girl from the Hills area cut my hair.

Anyway, she's been on a cruise and, you know, like, you'll love it. It's like a floating RSL club. The food is great. They had the best mashed potato. And a casino. It was so cool. Hmmm. Hoping my experience will be somewhat different.

Prior to exploring the wilds of Darwin we met a fellow traveller in the hotel. We traded our Ponant cruise information for his knowledge of the Ghan. Another of my bucket list Australian experiences.

Goodbye Darwin
We had a few hours to kill prior to embarkation so we walked down to the Teddy Bears' Picnic. Happily the festivities had concluded and the children were all heading home with their parents. We continued our walk around past parliament and Government House where we caught our first glimpse of Le Laperouse through the trees. It was almost lunch time so we meandered up to the Smith Street Social for a cleansing ale or two and a light lunch then back to the hotel to collect our bags.




Boarding the ship was a relatively simple process and Darwin was soon fading into the distance. Those with cruise experience were easy to identify, they introduced themselves immediately. The first onboard activity was the safety briefing and by the time we headed to dinner, we already knew half a dozen people.

The cabin, sorry, prestige stateroom, was much more spacious than I thought. We have a lounge, a small balcony, queen size bed and an accessible bathroom. There is plenty of storage for our clothes. There is also a colour TV, not that I imagine that will get any use at all.


At dinner we sat with a couple that we met as we made our way onto the ship. Jayne had stopped to take their photo for them. Dinner was low key on level 3, buffet as opposed to the a la carté on level 4 and the alcohol flowed freely. Mind you, we could order from the a la carté menu as well - and did. Champagne, champagne and more champagne. This is my kind of cruise.

The concern I had over the formalities of suits and dress shirts were unfounded. It appears that everything is far more relaxed than the brochure outlines. The first of the galah evenings, sorry, I believe it is spelled gala, is tonight and there is no need to suit up. I am going to though - I brought the bloody thing so it shall be worn.

You would know my avid reader that it is always my intention to write one blog post per day. However, I fear I will not be able to meet that exacting standard on this holiday. Wifi access is via satellite and is, as they say in the classics, dodgy at best. A pathetic excuse, I know, but couple that with the fact that this is an expedition and time is strictly limited. We are off the ship every day except today. And some days commence at 6:30am! Zut alors!

The casual dining area on level 3
Last night we headed out towards Indonesia to go into their national waters for some bureaucratic reason that I will attempt to understand and explain at a later date. Then we turned around and headed straight back to Australian territorial waters and for Wyndham. We arrive there at 4am on Tuesday. All of Monday is on board and it is the only day we don't disembark.

We encountered some swell last night that has continued into today. It is not that big, but it certainly makes navigating the corridors interesting. I'm not sure that it rocked me to sleep either and it is certainly noticeable compared with the calmer water around Darwin.

Today we had a briefing in the theatre around the access and use of the Zodiacs that will be deployed getting us to and from our destinations. The next pier we see will be in Broome. So the Zodiacs are a life line. Then later in the day we had a lecture on the geology of the Kimberley.  This afternoon we have a briefing on our shore excursion tomorrow. We are are heading up the Ord River. Before that I have had a massage. I know, my envious reader, it is a tough life, but someone has to do it.

Lunch today was a buffet. More champagne and a nice little French rosé. The menu was predominantly seafood but there were other options for the Philistines. We commenced with a cheese plate and then Coffin Bay oysters and prawns. Delightful. In the interesting category I would place the sea snail - my first and possibly my last attempt. Interesting smokey flavour, chewy, and not for me. There was a huge array of desserts and breads. Oh my, the bread and the croissant and pain au chocolat. heaven, I'm in heaven.

The demographic on board, you ask? Well, we are not the youngest, but there would only be  handful younger than us and they are most certainly not Australian. My hair colour seems to be quite the fashion among the men, although our mobility and agility is superior to many. It is quite an international mix and there are more Australians than I thought I would see. France, Japan, the US and New Zealand are also well represented. There is a smattering of South Africans too. Many, it would appear, are repeat customers for Ponant. That speaks volumes for the experience.

Until next time.


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