2022/11/09

All through the night (Efate Island, Vanuatu)

As you would have read in the last post, my dear reader, we had much rain overnight and again in the morning. Hence today's title with a nod to the great Cyndi Lauper and her She's So Unusual album of 1983. Goodness, it seems like yesterday. As does the rain. It poured through breakfast and we lingered waiting for a break in the rain. In the end, we gave up, unfurled the industrial sized resort umbrella and puddled our way back to our villa.

The outlook is still delightful, even with the rain and we sat on the (interior) day bed and watched the rain fall. At some point, I decided it was time to evict Sebastian, our crab visitor. I could see him, but encouraging him out from his hideaway was something else. In the end I dragged the daybed out from the wall and tried to prompt him to leave via the door by flicking my computer cable in his general direction. No luck. He reared up and snapped his little claws at me. Hardly intimidating - he's not big enough to hurt me and I was trying to save his life. Surely he must be missing the moisture of the shoreline and a regular food source? A couple of attempts saw Sebastian scuttle back underneath the daybed to the protection and darkness it afforded.

Always a risk of thunderstorms. The view from the deck.

The rain had started to ease off so we ventured out to the water sports hut to secure some snorkelling equipment, should the clouds clear. There had been someone stationed there since around 6am but with the torrential rain they didn't see much business. Equipment in hand, we looked to the sky, east and west (we have no idea where their weather comes from) and hoped for a similar afternoon to yesterday.

A single chain. Well it is unattached.

With the rain lessening we opted to walk the beach heading away from the resort, at least as far as where the beach kicked back around and we couldn't see any further. Who knows what lies beyond there? The warning to wear reef shoes at all times was good advice. There were sharp pieces of broken coral everywhere, not to mention glass and rock. The walk to the point was uneventful as was most of the walk back. We passed another couple from the resort who asked had we seen any snakes. We thought they were taking the piss. Apparently not. They'd seen a small snake on beach the day before. Harmless they were told.

Not more than 50 metres later I almost stepped on a snake. It was about half a metre in length, the body was banded black and white with a yellow mouth. A Banded Sea Krait. Harmless? No. Venomous? Yes. Fortunately not aggressive and rather docile. It just kept snaking along (see what I did there?) the shore line, doing whatever it wanted to do. I waited for a while for it to catch a wave back into the water, to no avail. It's not our first encounter with a sea snake but it's certainly the first time on land. Apparently these snakes breed and lay their eggs on land. Google it.

The Banded Sea Krait

The god of weather smiled on us. While we watched other brave souls make use of stand up paddle boards, pedal boards and hobby cats, we sat on the deck and cooled off in the plunge pool, as required. Around 1pm the clouds cleared and the sun smiled down at us and said, sunscreen. We didn't need to be told twice. Slathered in that slimy disgusting substance, we grabbed our goggles and flippers and headed for the water.  Coral always looks so much better in full sun.

Pawpaws grow wild. Everywhere.

We were not disappointed. There was an amazing display of a range of corals in brilliant colours from iridescent purple and pinks to yellow. They grew in clumps, on their own, covered the seabed en masse, and in single formation. Large areas had been damaged, I assume by anchors, but there was as much regrowth as there appeared to be death and destruction. There were also lots of trepang (sea slugs), huge iridescent blue starfish and tropical fish of all colours and sizes. The two most interesting sightings, from my perspective, were numerous pipefish, members of the seahorse family and a crown of thorns starfish. We spent around 45 minutes in the water and it was the best snorkelling we have experienced for quite a while. Fiji does not compare, well, not where we were, earlier this year.

Looking back to the villa from the beach.

Après snorkelling, it was back into the plunge pool and then to lunch. Not really. I can't imagine how anyone could eat a cooked breakfast and then a three course lunch and a three course dinner. I swear I'd explode. No, we went to the restaurant in the hope of something small and were confronted with a three course menu. Sensibly we both opted for the 'starter' of Vietnamese paper rolls to tide us over until dinner. That and a French rosé. Then, yes dear reader, you guessed it, back to the plunge pool to watch the passing parade on the beach and in the water.

Despite the forecast storms, the sun remained shining. And we remained close to the pool. People returned from snorkelling and sailing, the sun started to dip, the sunset cruise departed and life continued. Until dinner. Inevitable and delicious, I feel I need to do more to justify the food.

But first it was time for Sebastian to go. I was concerned that he might come out when we were not here but be unable to make good his escape. Armed with the strongest of weapons, a hand towel, I moved the day bed. As Sebastian scuttled along the wall, I threw the towel on top of him, scooped him up and delivered him safely to the garden. Mission accomplished.

Dinner. Still very good, although we preferred the previous night's fare. An amuse bouche of kumara chips with coriander yoghurt and a balsamic reduction. Tasty. Tonight's entrees: crab bisque and prawn salad, the mains were pan fried fish and spicy chicken breast followed by a nougat glacé and a cheese plate. Somewhat different to the buffet we didn't enjoy in Fiji, every night.

The sunsets were more spectacular in Fiji.

Another days ends. Until next time.

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