Conflicting Emotions (Nelson to Kaikōura via Blenheim, New Zealand)

Our nocturnal neighbour was a little quieter last night. Perhaps the pickings are slimmer on a Sunday. She was home at 3:15am. Alone. Ah, snuggle down, it's time for sleep, dear reader. Until the sun fingered its way through the clouds and our curtains.

It's a transit day and getting ever closer to the flight home. The impact of this is to re-focus on the packing of the bags so we get it right in Kaikōura prior to the airport dash. There shouldn't really be any concerns although I have acquired a pair of walking boots, and umbrella and several shirts since leaving Sydney. And Jayne, you ask? She has shed a pair of hiking sandals and picked up pandora charm and a net cardigan. The latter was a bargain for $25NZ. The last attempted purchase of such a garment was in Europe and they were asking €40. An absolute bargain - so glad we waited.

The morning cloud thickened, threatened and then dumped the rain we were expecting. Thanks for that 'sun city', Nelson, the home of sunshine in New Zealand. Not today. The rain accompanied us on the journey for some time.

The tide was out as we drove toward Blenheim. Something we had not yet witnessed. The Maitai River is reduced to a stream and its banks are not particularly attractive. At least that explained why there was little in the way of tourist/hospitality development on the river. The same could be said for the bay. It is wide and shallow and resplendent when under a blue sky. Not so pretty when the tide is out and the rain is falling.

Nelson to Blenheim is a classic Kiwi drive. It commences in the bay area and heads for the mountains, covering a range of climatic as well as road conditions. We experienced the steep mountain climbs, the hair pin bends, road works, contra flows, rain, drizzle, sunshine, cloud. All within about 90 minutes.

Flowers! The gardens of Blenheim.

Blenheim was out to impress. A cloudless blue sky, a welcome sight after the drive. As you drive into the town there is the most magnificent park and garden. We were stopping for coffee anyway, so I parked near the garden. As I was taking photos I could hear, but not see, someone, um, let's call it singing. Found him. A 'traveller', he had dropped his backpack near the Memorial Tower and stepped inside to harness the superior acoustics of the space. Admittedly I did not recognise any of the songs, but he was providing great amusement to other people, presumably locals, who were enjoying the park and its gardens.

Can you hear the music?

To the CBD Café for coffee and sweet treats. Skip the treats, stay with the coffee. The service is efficient enough, but the customers are slower than a wet week in Greymouth. I just wanted to push some of them in the back to help them get to the counter. Decorum and the possibility of breaking several of their frail, brittle bones encouraged me to behave.

Beautiful. Even without the sound.

Subsequently, a quick search discovered a Kathmandu store in close proximity. Jayne's jandals beckoned siren-like, well the possibility of their purchase called us. To no avail. On the walk back to the car we were once again regaled by the unknown singer who had decamped to another monument and was amusing an entirely new audience. Who said nothing ever happens in Blenheim?

Back on the road, the sunshine dissipated rapidly and was replaced with, at varying times: gale force winds, torrential rain, blue sky, cloud. We had it all, four seasons in one day - and no, that was never considered as the title for this post. Oh, yeah, and contra flows, did I mention them? At least three.

I was shocked to find street art in Kaikōura.

Highway 1, heading to Kaikōura, is NZ's great ocean road drive (if you're Australian). The highway snakes along the coast and the views heading south are epic/awesome/choice. On a fine day. Today I was more concerned with keeping the car on the road in between cyclonic gusts and rain downpours. Had the weather been different, this post would be punctuated with pictures of turquoise waters and black beaches. Maybe I would have stopped to photograph the three morons who chose the sheltered spot to go surfing - you know, the corner of the beach out of the wind that hasn't seen a surfable wave all day. How cool do they look to the passing traffic? Yeah, not that cool in my book. They might catch a cold, but that would be it.

Kaikōura is a Maori word, kai is food and kōura is crayfish. Or creyfush as they say here. Maybe lobster would be easier to say. We arrived at the almost brand new Sudima Hotel in blustery conditions with the rain not knowing what to do. Our room is lovely and has water views, an unexpected bonus. the staff are delightful, although the young man on the desk didn't get Jayne's sense of humour. "What brings you to Kaikōura?" he asked. "Sunshine," replied Jayne, deadpan. One of the girls at the desk laughed. Not he, "Oh!" was the response.

Snow capped mountains and a sea view.

The weather did improve late in the afternoon, but not early enough for us to don rain jackets and brave the buffeting wind. Instead we opted to dine in at the hotel restaurant and research some possible excursions for tomorrow. The possibilities are endless; tramping, eating crayfish, tramping, photographing wildlife, eating crayfish, tramping. We'll make the best attempt to include drinking wine in tomorrow's agenda as well.

Lengthening shadows, but sunshine.

Dinner at Hiku at the hotel was most enjoyable. They do a good crayfish (lobster). Service was great and we chatted, OK, Jayne chatted with an American couple at the next table and our American server. The light was fading, but we snapped a few shots before returning to our room.

The title today, from the 1983 Split Enz album of the same name, sums up how we feel. Our trip is drawing to a close and while it will be good to heading home, there is more to explore.

Tomorrow the sun is supposed to be shining and we will be walking around the headland trail.

Until next time ...