2023/03/08

Locked out (Queenstown to Tekapo via Wanaka, New Zealand)

Hopefully by the time you are reading this, my dedicated reader, the bots at blogger will have decided that my previous post is harmless. I have removed the link to Mother Goose singing that dreadful song Baked Beans and I deleted references to race and an expression that may cause offence. I am still none the wiser as to what the real problem was. All of this time wasting spawned today's title, Locked Out, by Crowded House from 1994. Goodness that makes me feel old.

Today we set sail for Lake Tekapo. Why? That's a fair question my dear reader. We did the glacier stuff in Canada a few years back and didn't feel the need to repeat the experience. The scenic route via Wānaka was our choice and as it turns out, an interesting one at that.

It's a long way down.

The drive out of Queenstown towards Frankton was the usual slow crawl which was still surprising for a Monday morning - until we reached the Frankton roundabout to find a car broken down in the left lane. It's a good idea to leave the car there rather than push it around the corner so the traffic is not impeded. The mountains looked like they had been dusted with icing sugar in the night and made for a special backdrop as we said goodbye to Queenstown.


The drive to Wānaka takes us up over the Crown Range. You've seen how steep the mountains are and this is no exception. The road isn't so much cut into the side of the mountain as it is etched onto the surface like the signature of some passing giant. There were more 15 kmph hairpin bends than I've ever experienced in one drive. It was a short, sharp climb to the top and the lookout produces excellent views over Queenstown and the valley.

The Wānaka township is a little smaller than Queenstown but has the same friendly vibe. The lake is another body of water in those amazing blue hues. We stopped for coffee at a café where the staff were all so hyped Jayne suggested it may not have been through natural means. Harsh. I thought they were just high on life.

Lake Wānaka

Caffeine levels restored, we took to the road again after refuelling the car. Petrol was $2.69.9 a litre. Ouch.

The lake again

The drive itself was unremarkable, unlike the mountains the other side of Queenstown (see what I did there?). We saw the landscape change from sheer sided mountains to rolling hills and valleys and then back into lakes. This time though the lake, or at least the hydro station on it was man made. Again the blue was intense and so captivating that I had to stop for a photo. Lake Pukaki is quite impressive and home to a salmon farm as well as the hydro facility.

The colour is captivating, Lake Pukaki.

The next town of note is Twizel, pronounced Twyzel. Originally it was constructed for the hydro workers and was meant to be demolished when the work was completed. The locals who had moved in to provide services for the workers had other ideas. The hydro workers left, the locals stayed and a thriving community developed.

And there is the background.

Tekapo is another lakeside town. Cliché alert. It is stunning. We arrived in brilliant sunshine which ensured the lake was showing off its most amazing range of blues. The town is dominated by hotel style accommodation while the village shopping centre has a number of options for dining and there is a supermarket as well. However, there are a number of vacant premises. Perhaps they are victims of COVID because the places that were open were doing a roaring trade.

The view from our room.

There is a stone church on the point of one part of the lake which offers an amazing postcard moment. The trick is all in the timing. It was crawling with tourists when we were there. You know the type, the inane ones who need a photo of themselves in every shot to validate their existence. One group took turns to have their photo taken in the church entrance. Others were being photographed from every angle at any random point around the building. Patience is a virtue which I lack, except when waiting for a human-free photo opportunity - as you will see below.

The bridge to the church.


Not a person in sight.

We dined at Peppers and decided that we would use this time to relax and do very little before the big drive to Greymouth.


Sunset.


The geese are heading somewhere.

The next day was forecast to be cloudy, but the morning was bright sunshine and although the cloud did turn up, it was still a lovely day.

We walked into the village for breakfast, well, brunch, well, a coffee and something light to eat. They do an interesting ham and cheese croissant in Tekapo. It comes with lettuce. Now I understand it has become trendy to cook lettuce. I don't know why, it's mostly water and just goes all limp and soggy when heated. Despite the lettuce the croissant passed muster - kind of.

Random flower.

After a brief walk along the lakeside, we returned to the apartment to sit on the balcony and enjoy the view. I spent the time trying to circumvent the blogger bots who found my last post so objectionable. I'm still uncertain as to how successful I was. Jayne is still getting the warning, although that could be to do with her murky past in catholic education. They control everything, even long after you've worked for them.

That was enough sitting still for me so I grabbed the pack and camera and followed the track around the western edge of Lake Tekapo. There is a spa/hot pools centre, a camp ground, an ice rink and a new housing subdivision. Aside from that there is track around the lake that is used by walkers and mountain bikers.


Lichen on the pines.

Looking back to the church.


Back at the apartment, it was balcony time as the sun peeped out from behind the clouds. It's nice to have a rest day after all the driving and activity. Although it meant we did not see Mt Cook up close. Maybe next time.

The afternoon melted into evening and dinner and the wait for a coloured sunset. Sunset happened, without colour.

Tomorrow we have the big drive to Greymouth, 5 hours. That's without any breaks., but there will be breaks.

Until next time ...







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