Emma (Emma Gorge, El Questro Station, Zebedee Springs, WA)

The first activity for the day was optional and Jayne opted out. The dreaded Emma Gorge walk. Aside from being informed by a random tourist that the walk was very difficult, we had the usual build up from our guides. Water, sunscreen, sturdy shoes and so on. The opinion of the random tourist was questionable, she was completing the Galvans Gorge walk in thongs. As for the tour guides, well, they need to be super careful. I wasn't really expecting anything particularly strenuous and so it turned out to be.

Today's title was too easy. Emma by Hot Chocolate all the way from 1974. Enjoy.

We left early dear reader, not just to beat the sun and the heat, but to be in front of the crowds that the gorge walk attracts. It was probably the same length as many of the other walks and there was some scrambling, but at no stage did I remove my camera from my hand. For me, Jayne keeps emphasising that, for me, the level of difficulty was 'meh'.

Shadows in the morning light.

As the sun rose we experienced the changing colours of the gorge walls and enjoyed most of the journey in the shade. We crossed the creek a few times as the track snaked its way to the falls and its pool. Emma Gorge pool is fed by a droplet waterfall and a thermal spring. The destination, like all the gorge walks we have experienced, is stunning and the walk to the pool also has its own natural beauty. It is vast, it is remote but it is just so stunningly beautiful.

Changing colours as the sun gets up.

We were overtaken by a young couple and their two children on the walk in and by the time we reached the pool they were drying off, ready to make the return journey. I asked the two young boys if they had enjoyed their swim. The reply came in stereo, "It is freezing." Their departure meant our group had exclusive use of the pool - for a while.

Crystal clear water.

The water was indeed cold, as the boys had indicated. However to one side of the pool away from the falls there was a thermal spring supplying warm water. It was decidedly more pleasant swimming in that area. Again, the area is captivating. The sound of the falls gently splashing into the pool, the backdrop of the hanging fern garden. It is easy to see why the Emma Gorge walk is so popular.

The falls and the hanging fern garden.

The crowd began to build up as the day wore on and we were soon making our back down the track to our accommodation. It was noticeably warmer and the track was congested with people heading up to the pool for  swim. The decision to leave early had proven to be wise.

A rainbow Bee-eater with a bee for lunch.

After a quick shower and change back at Emma Gorge El Questro, it was onto the bus to drive the relatively short distance to El Questro Station for lunch at the famed Steakhouse. In 2019 we missed out on an opportunity to lunch at El Questro because numbers were restricted. At the time, one of the guides said we weren't missing out on much and the activity we ended up with was preferable anyway. Today we would find out if that was true.

A Silver-crowned Friarbird outside our tent.

El Questro is a landmark in its own right being over 280,000 hectares in size and covering almost 5,000 square kilometres. The notes from APT suggest much of "this remote wilderness is unexplored". They should add "by white fellas". Not for the first time is there a subtle undertone that dismisses the legacy of the first nations people.

Little Corella.

The Pentecost River runs through the station and is a popular destination for the travellers staying at El Questro. There is also a campground, a helipad, a souvenir shop, a bar, an art gallery and the restaurant. The prices at the shop and gallery were exorbitant. The artist in residence had many artworks on display the main feature of which was the Boab Tree and, while we admired the work and the clothes on sale, the prices were way too high for me to make a purchase. There was a pair of yellow boardshorts depicting scenes from the Kimberley. I liked them, but not for almost $100.

Artwork from NAIDOC week on display at El Questro.

Rather poignant don't you think?

Lunch at the restaurant was fine but again, nothing out of the ordinary. It appears that our guide in 2019 was correct, we didn't miss out on much then and had we not made it here this time, I would have been unconcerned.

A Red-winged Parrot at Zebedee Springs.

The last stop for the day was Zebedee Springs, a series of thermal pools, not far from the Station. They are closed to the general public in the afternoon, so our group had the entire pools to ourselves for an hour. Negotiating entry to egress from the water proved to be a little tricky with less than stable footing, but once in we relaxed and enjoyed the 30° water and floated and chatted with other members of our group.

 

That night we were back at Emma Gorge El Questro. The resort proved to be somewhat disappointing. The staff were indifferent and inclined not to be helpful, in fact some were just rude and the common areas badly needed cleaning. The bar area doubled as coffee shop in the morning and the spills from the previous night's festivities could be clearly seen on thee bartop. Not good enough really given the price tag for accommodation is over $500 per night with breakfast but not dinner.

Tomorrow we are heading for Purnululu or the Bungle Bungles. This has been a bucket list destination for years. I hope I haven't overhyped it in my mind.

Until next time.