Charles Darwin, the great scientist, proffered the theory of Natural Selection, dear reader, where survival of the fittest became the yardstick. I'm here to inform you that random selection can have just as significant an impact on life. Our arbitrary choice of seat on day 1 of the trip now controls where we sit each day. A significant part of today's journey is along Spring Creek Track, a meandering, corrugated, undulating stretch of dirt that leads to Echidna Chasm. Today, dear reader, as a result of that seat choice on day 1, we have landed in the last row, the seats behind the bus wheels, for possibly the worst ride of the trip.
Consequently, today's title should come as no surprise. The real choice was around the artist. There have been so many covers, but as a child of the '70s with a major crush, the choice was clear. Suzi Quatro from her landmark debut album from 1973, Can The Can. Enjoy.
As usual, I am getting ahead of myself. After breakfast we drove to Doon Doon Roadhouse for our first break of the day. As I have remarked previously, the roadhouse is of major importance to travellers in such a remote part of the country. This particular roadhouse is no different; it sells a range of take-away food, grocery supplies and good coffee, allegedly. It wasn't. I've had better coffee on a plane.
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| Turkey bush. |
They also retailed an array of CU in the NT merchandise. Interesting only because we were in WA. It also posted a sign at the door that stated it sold the best pies, sausage rolls, hamburgers and so on in Doon Doon. There is nothing else in Doon Doon so it was accurate advertising.
The real reason to stop, aside from re-fuelling, is to use the toilets. There were often long stretches on the road and bouncing around can increase the discomfort if you don't time your toilet breaks perfectly. I knew what was in front of me so I used the toilets. The hand basin was next level. It was so stained and filthy that I thought by washing my hands they would be dirtier than when I commenced. Apparently the basin in the ladies was the same. Thankfully we had hand sanitiser on the bus.
In a moment direct from the 1970's, well it is outback WA, one of our party noticed a 'humorous' sign on the petrol bowsers.
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| Oh, how we laughed. |
Returning to the bus, we enjoyed the trek down the National Highway before finally turning toward Echidna Chasm and the 70km of rough road that would take over 2 hours to negotiate. As we arrived at our destination I remarked that I would no longer require a colonoscopy when we returned home. It was truly a bone jarring, teeth chattering, side-to-side, rock and roll experience.
Before embarking on the walk in the chasm, we had lunch at the Visitor Centre where I purchased a field guide to birds of Central Northern Territory and Top End. It became my constant companion for the remainder of the trip.
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| Creek bed walks are tough on the ankles. |
The walk to the chasm was unremarkable to the extent that I was becoming immune to the scenery. The track followed the side of the creek bed before it entered the chasm and presented some more challenging terrain. A chasm is basically a narrow gorge without the water, although you could see the impact of the water rushing through in the wet. The walls of the chasm changed colour as the sun shifted lower in the sky. It was early afternoon so there were parts where the sunlight found it hard to reach.
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| The colours change with the light. |
There was a circular chamber that was carved out by water. While dry now, it marked the point where we detoured further across tumbled river rock to a point of no return. The track was closed and the extra walk probably wasn't worth the effort. We gathered back at the chamber where the acoustics encouraged some impromptu singing. The first song was Sweet Chariot, something I haven't sung since my rugby days and that version wasn't appropriate for here. Kylie, our guide, then delivered a Whitney Houston song.
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| It's easy to feel insignificant in country like this. |
Heading toward the bus, I discovered a bower that was being tended by a Great Bowerbird. It was slightly off the track and had been relocated by its industrious owner.
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| He's not easy to see, but he's in the background. |
We stopped briefly at the Visitor Centre on the way to our accommodation, the Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge. The return trip proved to be as spectacularly bone shaking. I was glad we wouldn't be passing this way again.
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| Home for the next 2 nights. |
The accommodation at the Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge was much the same at the other APT lodges. Upmarket tents with ensuite and king or queen sized beds, a communal area for meals and socialising and inadequate wifi.
It was time stretch our jarred and shaken bodies on a lounge and relax with a glass of wine before dinner.
Until next time.
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