Stranded (Perth - Learmonth - Sal Salis)

The flight from Perth to Learmonth was uneventful and surprisingly the plane was not quite full. One of the air stewards informed us there had had been major issues in Sydney due to storms and many flights had been cancelled. So glad we flew out a day earlier, otherwise we could well have been stranded too. The inspiration for today's title, Stranded by the Saints, the first real punk band.

The flight landed on time, dear reader, but the singular baggage handler wanted to make his presence felt by moving with the speed of a glacier in an ice age. 40 minutes after disembarking the plane, our bag came through the carousel flap. Erin from Sal Salis was waiting for us and we were soon on the mini-bus heading for the resort. There is no road across the Cape Range due to its environmental and ecological significance. A surprise for the mining state. The range is riddled with caves, 500 plus and counting, that are being mapped and explored, revealing new species after new species. The scientists have enough work for many years to come. The road trip from the airport requires driving up into Exmouth and down the other side of the Cape Range. A trip of around 90 minutes.

Camping, but not really.

The resort is a series of 16 glamping tents, complete with ensuite and a communal lodge where meals and refreshments are enjoyed. After the usual ‘onboarding’ experience, we were shown to our tent, number 13, and unpacked our bags. It being close to canapé time, we then adjourned to the deck attached to the Lodge to enjoy a wine. Open bar - free pour as they say in the cruise brochures. Nice.

Home for the next four nights.

Canapés were delicious and we sat and chatted with other patrons as dinner approached. A three course delight with paired wines. The chef is French. Or at least he speaks with an outrageous French accent. The food was delightful, as was the dinner company, a couple all the way from, well, Ultimo. We’re almost neighbours.

The first sunset.

The moon is approaching full, but stars were difficult to spot due to the cloud. The night brought a rain storm which sounded spectacular on the canvas. I just rolled over and pulled the doona cover a little tighter. Ah, bliss. Not a siren to be heard.

Our start in the morning was relatively early. We needed to be at breakfast by 7 for a 7:45am departure for our mega-fauna tour. Although I’m sure those that left for the 5:45am sunrise walk would say we had it easy. There was quite an array of options for breakfast, fresh fruit, an açai bowl, the ubiquitous bacon and eggs and so on. Suitably sustained, we jumped into the golf buggy and headed for the carpark at Mandu South to pick up our lift to the boat ramp. Smooth as silk. Unlike the water this morning. 

The morning break.

The storm that hit Perth as we were leaving yesterday, side-swiped us and the swell was running at about 3 metres. Not enough to stop the trip but enough to make things interesting. In contrast to our Manta Ray swim last year, the boat we were on had only 7 passengers and 4 crew. A nice ratio.

A random flower. Pretty.

Safely on board we headed for a lagoon snorkelling spot where our guides could surreptitiously check out our ability levels. The water was a delightful 25° and I did the first swim without a wetsuit. Visibility was extremely poor and as an event, the first snorkel was forgettable. But today we weren’t here to snorkel in the lagoon and soon the boat was pointing north, out beyond the reef, looking for a Whale Shark.

This is what a whale shark looks like.

After the usual safety talk, we were soon sitting on the marlin board on the stern of the boat, eagerly anticipating our first sighting. The water was still warm but we all had on steamers on and lined up as we’d been told. Into the water, into another line and then the call, “face in water” and out of the gloom emerged a whale shark. Just brilliant. It moved so languidly, carrying so many sucker fish. A slight movement of the tail propelling it forward; the swell buffeting it as much as it did us. The turquoise spots reflecting the sun. And then our time was up and we returned to the boat.

This guy dropped by too.

We were one of 7 vessels chasing a whale shark sighting at that spot. There were two or three other sightings but the whale sharks there weren’t being particularly cooperative and submerged as people came close. The result for us, was a highly coordinated ballet of bodies, moving into and out of the water to spend their time swimming along with this behemoth of the seas. 

Beyond cool.

And so we did. Five times. On the fourth pass I was at the end of our line and the last to put my head into the water. Unbeknown to me, the shark had changed direction and was moving directly toward me. I submerged to see it within in a metre and half of me, much closer than expected and had to swim backwards to avoid a collision. He rolled onto his side as he passed, attempting to protect his soft underbelly.

About 5 metres in length.

Our fifth swim saw the water more clouded and the shark was less clearly defined. Compounding this was the fact that he’d had enough and began his descent from the surface back into the depths of the Indian Ocean. Unfortunately for the group next in the water, they would see little more than a murky shape. As it eventuated, this particular group had made numerous attempts to see a shark throughout the day. This was their last, and another failed attempt. We had been so fortunate.

Celebrating the day.

Back on shore, Kate drove us back to the pick-up point where our golf buggy chariot awaited. A hot shower and a change of clothes meant it was time to adjourn to the Lodge for the afternoon, rosé and some nibbles. Ah, paradise.

The gang.

We met some new people in our attempt to find dry seats. The unexpected deluge from last night had left all the outdoor furniture cushions wet. A couple from Tasmania. Like everyone else we have met so far, there was an amazing back story … time spent working in Antarctica. Incredible. Dropped into the conversation like you’d say, “I’m off to the shops. Do you need anything?” Another brilliant three course meal followed. Prawns, gold banded snapper and passionfruit tart. With paired wines, of course.

That's all for now.

Until tomorrow.