Rock Lobster (Split - Omis - Makarska - Bol - Ploče)

We were on board overnight in Split, Croatia's second largest city, before boarding a coach for an hour's drive to the Cetina River. The river is quite picturesque and winds its way through the limestone cliffs. The colours of the water are as intense as the Adriatic Sea and change with the sun and depth of the water.

Amazing engineering.

Upriver before we left the wharf.

The Cetina is quite the playground and, although we were ferried up river, there were many people in canoes. Activities were not just confined to the enjoying the water or fishing from one of the shacks. There was also some serious zipline action on the side of one of the mountains as well as numerous rock climbing cliff faces.

The only shack that was being utilised.

Picture perfect.

There were plenty of large black trout in the water as well as turtles. Coots abounded, many with young, and there was a sole grey heron. The slow boat up the river ended at Radmanove Mlinice or Radman's Mills, established 1772. It is now the site of a restaurant and bar. They are famous for their bread and we were there to try some.

The Grey Heron.

The only turtle that posed for a photo.

Well, that was the plan, dear reader, but the best plans can go awry. Despite our guide having confirmed that we would be able to taste the bread, that did not turn out to be the case. They appeared to be totally focussed on a large group booking (120 people) and would not even allow us to sit at the tables that were not set. We were unceremoniously dispatched to an uncovered area where there were some seats and tables, for drinks only - no food.

From the pier at the mill.

As there was to be no breaking of the bread, I thought an espresso might be in order and walked over to the bar where one of our group had just been served. I was there only a few seconds before a waitress barked something at me in Croatian and walked off. Fortunately Nora, our guide was next me and translated the curt message. "There is only table service here, you are unable to order at the counter", she said. This was on top of the extremely rude 'welcome' we received from one of the other staff. I would not be spending my money here.

Nora continued negotiations to try and obtain the special bread, all to no avail. She was upset, none of the group was concerned. How special can bread really be? To appease us, Nora ordered a round of local spirits. As I have noted previously, they start drinking early in Croatia. Spirits before 11am? Why not. Mine was made from green hazelnuts but all I could really taste was the lemon floating in the glass. Jayne had a cherry schnapps and there was also herbal variety and another I can't remember.

It was pleasant enough sitting in the sun, watching more and more people arrive to be told "no bread for you".  When it was time to walk out to the coach rendezvous, we were amused to see an array of the now infamous bread loaves, sitting on display along a shelf. Really not sure who they were keeping it for but hopefully they were stuck with it all at the end of the day.

The forbidden bread.

We boarded the coach at 12pm and were back on board the ship at 1pm for lunch. We did not return to Split but drove to Makarska, the Croatian Riviera. It was free time in the afternoon so we walked to the beach. The sharp, rocky nature of the shore kept us out of the water; reef shoes were an essential. The boardwalk hugged the shoreline providing many places for people to lie in the sun and bake themselves. We saw many people who would be looking for the aloe vera lotion in the morning. They were as red as cooked lobsters. Hence today's title, Rock Lobster by the B-52s from 1978.

Looking back to the beach.

On the harbour, there were several party boats that looked decidedly overcrowded, with music pumping out across the water for us all to enjoy ... while on the boardwalk, there were many, many men wandering around shirtless, presumably hoping that their (significantly unattractive) naked physiques would attract the nubile young ladies who were also promenading around the foreshore. Definitely the place to be seen. Fully clothed.

They became our dock neighbours for the night.

Dinner tonight was veal tomahawk and was the first major failure. Unfortunately we were at the table closest to the kitchen and the first steaks to table were uncooked closer to the tomahawk bone. After a partly consumed dinner, we walked back into town for a gelato and then retreated from the main strip to the old town behind it. This was obviously where the locals go. It was much quieter and there were numerous restaurants, cafés, gardens and of course, a church.

A statue dedicated to tourists.

Our plans for tomorrow were quite fluid at present because the wind had changed direction and turned into a Jugo or Sirocco. We would be weighing anchor at 6am to get ahead of the weather. Hopefully.

The weather rolling down the mountain at Makarska.

We did indeed set sail at 6am. One of the ships beside us started their pumps at 4am and I was well aware of our sailors making preparations at 5am. The wind was already strong and the choppy water enssured we rolled our way toward Bol on the island of Brač.

One of the many statues.

Despite the dire warnings, the conditions were not that bad and shortly after breakfast, we docked. Bol is the home of Zlatni Rat or the Golden Cape. It is purported to be one of the most beautiful beaches on the Mediterranean. Prevailing weather conditions did not do it any favours and we did not see the Golden Cape in its full glory.

A side beach leading up to the Golden Cape.

There is a tourist train from the dock that runs to the cape. We opted to walk the 1800 metres along the boardwalk. The initial area is populated with small market stalls, all selling various products carved from Brač limestone. The limestone that was not used to build any part of the White House in the US, contrary to stories related by every guide.

Wine storage at a restaurant on the boardwalk.

Further along the boardwalk there were numerous hotels and restaurants. I imagine it would be packed during peak season. As we made our way toward the beach, we passed Darrell Eastlake (no photo, sorry) an Australian TV presenter and the man most responsible for the current style of football commentary. (And so, Apparently Darrell Eastlake is no longer with us. Whoever it was certainly looked like him. Thank you eagle-eyed reader for letting me know).

A Chaff Finch.

You may remember the cat man of Rovinj, dear reader. He would be out of a job here as the restaurant staff leave food out for the cats. There were cats everywhere you looked. Regardless of this there were numerous doves and finches feeding on the ground. I guess the cats were too content to even bother chasing a bird. So much for chasing rats.

The things you see when you don't have a gun.

A European Turtle Dove.

The path to the Cape is popular for walkers and cyclists. There are numerous sculptures, all from Brač limestone. The beach itself is also Brač limestone, but much smaller pieces. It was not showing its best side and the wind ensured that any locals were on the leeward side. The water was still warm and the temperature, out of the wind, was around 24°. I could imagine it in on a still summer's day packed with people who don't know what melanoma means. Baking themselves red raw in the sun, well, cloud.

Ok, so I may have removed a couple of people.

As European beaches go, it ticked all the boxes. There were beach beds with umbrellas, comfortable chairs, all for hire, a massage suite, café, kids playground (somewhere amongst the trees). I snapped a few photos and returned to the boardwalk where we commenced the journey back to town. The number of people had increased and there were more cafés and stalls open; the cats were still disdainful.

A nice day for a swim.

Back in town we went in search of coffee. We saw a café on the other side of the dock and made a beeline for it. Happily the ship's captain and some of the crew were there. Double win; we know it's ok and the ship can't leave while they are in our sight. The espresso was good and it was a great people watching zone. The waves were smacking against the seawall and spewing upwards, often on to unsuspecting passersby. Excellent viewing until a passing shower forced us to return to the ship.

Incoming!!

The anchor was weighed at 11:30am and our new destination is Ploče, replacing Opuzen because of the forecast storms and resulting rainfall which will cause a significant rise in river levels and preclude us travelling safely under the bridge.

An afternoon of lunch and blogging and reading followed. The Lady Eleganza rocked and rolled her way faithfully toward Polče where we are being picked up and conveyed to our 'traditional Croatian' restaurant.

Until tomorrow.