Crocodile rock (Prince Frederick Harbour and Porosus Creek)

Welcome back dear reader to the easiest blog title ever. We left Vansittart Island and Gwion Gwion art in our wake to be informed at Recap that we would have an afternoon start for today. Winner. Jayne was most excited. A leisurely breakfast, some work on the belated blog posts and polishing of photos would be the order of the day. Then to Josh's lecture on crocodiles at 11am, followed by lunch and a zodiac trip up the Porosus Creek looking for the critters Josh had warned us about.

The lecture went overtime. To gauge its effectiveness, the majority of people were still there at the end and people remained behind to ask questions. It was a great mixture of information, statistics, and humour, measured by Josh's work in science, conservation and the crocodile industry. Josh is an interesting man with an amazing, eclectic knowledge, not just on crocodiles, his specialty, but of conservation, science and the environment in general. We had a most enjoyable dinner with him after the visit to Vansittart Island where we discussed indigenous art and archeology in Australia.

No, this rock doesn't look like a crocodile.

The whole area is stunning and I doubt that we would have seen it had we not come on this cruise. No, dear reader it is not a cheap and cheerful option, but it has been worth it. The experience of the Kimberley is not something I can easily describe and is certainly not something easily accessed. The ship is beautiful, the food is great, there are even activities for cruise type people, like French lessons, dancing lessons, concerts ad nauseam.



Post lecture and the long lunch we headed for the zodiacs and by pure chance we boarded the zodiac that was skippered by Josh. Winner (again). We hadn't moved too far from the ship before we spotted a sea snake. Absolutely beautiful animal just swimming around minding its own business until we turned up.

Pretty cute, eh?

The snake left us and we continued our journey to see more crocodiles. And see more crocodiles we did. The photos are testament. The statistics suggest around 6 crocodiles per 1 km stretch of river. One of the  most famous crocs of the region is Stumpy, a three legged croc. While there were tracks up and down the beach where he and his women live, they were not to be seen.

We continued on and motored up a side creek where we came across a  mud skipper. They are seriously huge up here.

Mud or mud skipper? Hard to tell where one begins and the other ends.

We followed up the mud skipper sighting with that of the Lesser Sand Plover, a migratory bird that would have only arrived this week from somewhere in Siberia or the Himalayas - according to Wikipedia. The Kimberley is a nice place to avoid the cold Siberian winter.

What is it with animals and mud?

Yeah, I'm looking at you.

So much for the warm up acts. Where is the main feature? Oh, yeah, just over there. At the mouth of a rapidly emptying creek as the tide ran out, two crocs were having a dispute over valuable territory. This was easy fishing. As the tide runs out the fish have to go with it and the crocs just sit at the end of the creek with mouth open and the fish literally swim in. Our exploration interrupted the battle and one of the crocs slipped silently away down the river. The other stayed and while he didn't challenge us, we got the feeling he would have, if we moved too close.

You might be a boat but I'll still bite you.

We did spot some other crocs but they were smaller and not in dispute, so not quite as exciting as our original sighting. It was time to head for home. Everyone on board was scanning the water looking for sightings. The tide, which runs up to around 6 metres, was almost out, the mud flats were exposed. I looked ahead and saw a croc. Or was it birds? Or a log? No it's a croc. I alert Josh. We both look, no it's a log I think. Agreed says Josh. Then the log moved. We had a found a reasonable sized croc on the mud flats eating a fish (a cat fish as it turned out). Rather unusual behaviour.

Catfish are not so easy to swallow.

Just when you thought there was nothing else to sight we came across some humpback dolphins. Sorry no photos, they are quite shy and don't wait for the cameras to be set before they disappear. That is now twice we have seen them. The Kimberley is just awesome.

Back to the ship. Drinks on the observation deck level 6 where one might play Titanic if one was immature enough. No, dear reader, we did not. Drinks with Ken and Moya and dinner on level 4 that was enhanced by a lovely little 8 year old red for Chateauneuf du Pape. This is living.

Until next time.

If a picture paints a thousand words (Vansittart Bay, WA)

It's time to leave the Australian rock legends behind and wander back to the gentler times of the 1970s with Bread. This post dear reader will be relatively brief and devoid of relevant photos. However, to continue the visual feast that is the Kimberley region, I will include some previously unpublished photos to sweeten my dirge of words.

The reason for no photos you ask? Today's expedition was to Jar Island to observe Gwion Gwion rock art. While we were given permission to take photos, they requested that we do not publish them on social media. Since I'm one of those bleeding heart lefties that you hear that right wing bufoon Alan Jones spew about, it is my right to observe the wishes of the original inhabitants of this land. Therefore ... what you'll get today is a thousand words and no pictures of the art. See what I did there?

So at the expedition briefing the night before, we were unsurprised to find that group Yellow B would be the second of eight groups to depart by zodiac for the short trip to the beach of Jar Island for the first excursion of two planned for the day.  This meant another early start since departure time for us was 7:10am. We are hanging out for the rotation among the groups since we (read Jayne) really feel we have done our fair share of early risings already!

Once on the beach, we elected to keep our reef shoes on while others changed into joggers for the 500 metre stroll up to Gallery 1 to have the first set of Gwion Gwion interpreted for us.  The figures are quite distinctive in their style with defined bodies and detailed representations of hands, fingers and body adornments, especially the large and intricate headdresses worn for particular ceremonies.  The art has been dated at around 17,000 years old.

Interestingly, they are sometimes hard to discern as you look at them with the naked eye but they come out of the rock more distinctly if photographed.

We retraced our path towards the beach and crossed over with the other Yellow group to view Gallery 2, a slightly more rocky walk which took us in behind rocks to another, more extensive and diverse set of Gwion Gwion.  Here there were snakes, people, an echidna and fish. The scene was described whereby the paintings would have been used as a backdrop to tell stories around the campfire at night both to entertain and instruct - the world's first open air cinema. For some more detailed background read this: http://theconversation.com/aboriginal-history-rewritten-again-by-ignorant-political-class-43996

The colour that remains is a dark red ochre stained into the rock but originally it is thought that there would have been black, yellow and white as well as the red to bring this dimension of the Dreaming vividly into the midst of the gathering.

After Gallery 2, we returned to the beach and then the ship via the zodiacs for a lunch interlude until the second part of the day - another zodiac trip to walk over a salt pan to view the wreck of a WWII C53 plane that crashed on to the island.

We had already decided that the expedition leader's representation the previous evening of what we would see was less than inspiring - vandalised, parts missing, unable to go inside the wreck.  We weighed this up against the huge responsibility to you, dear reader, since the blog was well and truly behind in its usual daily production.  We opted to forego the C53 experience and stay on board to catch up on the blog and emails.  We duly discovered that many of our co-passengers were similarly uninspired by the briefing and had also stayed put that afternoon.  Therefore the C53 will have to remain a WWII mystery to you all.

For the dedicated reader, you will be pleased to know that Jayne has rediscovered her love affair with the Pina Colada. It has become the go to drink when we have time prior to lunch. Although that is not often - this is, after all, an expedition, not a cruising holiday.

Tomorrow we are back on the zodiacs heading up Porosus Creek off Prince Frederick Harbour.

Until then.

When the river runs dry (Koolama Bay, King George Gorge Falls)

I'm on a roll, three great Australian rock bands in succession. This is one from Hunters and Collectors, their 1989 classic When The River Runs Dry. Yes, dear reader, just about everything runs dry once the wet season is over. Certainly, the King George Gorge Twin Falls are no exception as you shall see from the photos. The name is a bit of a mouthful though, don't try repeating it after few champagnes. I did. Unsuccessfully.

In the spirit of expedition and not cruising, my day commenced at 5:30am. Again. I had to be breakfasted, sunscreened and ready on deck, resplendent in my Zodiac life vest for a 6:30 departure. Jayne did not. My morning was a 6 hour zodiac tour which included a climb to the top of the falls. At the briefing, the description of the difficulty of the walk could have been referencing a climb up Everest sans oxygen. A 9/10 for difficulty. I had my doubts but the description was sufficient to ensure that Jayne and I sat there pondering - she wanting me to go, me wanting to stay with her and both of us knowing she would not be interested.

Thankfully, they supplied us with a solution. I could do the tour and come back, have lunch and join Jayne on an afternoon tour that didn't include a climb up a cliff face. Perfect.

My first view of the ship from the water

The water was choppy due to the wind, even at 6:30, as we set out to spot the bird life on a nearby beach and hopefully sight the elusive black and white stork. Those of us less ornithologically inclined might refer to it as a jabiru - it has been renamed because jabiru actually exist in South America. We didn't see one.

 Weather-wise the morning was not as magical as the Ord River experience. The wind blew up a choppy swell and we were regularly cooled down by waves splashing over the bow of the Zodiac. A small price to pay in order to see things that I may never see again. The rock walls have a sameness until you look closer. They are textured by erosion and coloured by different layers of sand, minerals, algae, plants and guano. The colours change as the light alters with the transition of the sun and encroaching or receding shade.

There was plenty of wild life too. George, our expedition leader, is into birds. Happy days for me. He demonstrated amazing knowledge of the area but birds were his specialty. We saw peregrine falcons, white bellied sea eagles, pied oyster catchers, terns, osprey ... the list goes on. Sadly, I made a poor choice of lens for this trip and only had the 135mm with me so many photos went begging for want of a larger lens. Nonetheless, the journey to the drop off point for the climb was amazing.

The water changed colour too depending on where we were, how the deep the water was, the surrounding vegetation and other factors. Some places looked delightfully enticing, particularly as the day warmed up. However, this is salt water and it harbours an abundance of sharks and crocodiles. A swim could end up with you becoming dinner, see below. He was totally disinterested in us as we watched him swim lazily bye.

Best not to go swimming

The climb to the plateau was as I thought it would be - a very steep scramble over rocks. It was nowhere near the difficulty described and I walked with my camera around my neck, meaning I never used more than one hand to climb or keep myself steady. It didn't even require a high level of fitness. From water to plateau in less than 30 minutes and I was near the tail of the group, so I was not making my own pace and I stopped for photos. That said, given the demographic on board, the warning was necessary. Perhaps there are some amongst us who still view their power, prowess, strength and flexibility through rose coloured glasses. The climb was not without casualties but, happily, I was not one of them. 

The view on the way up was magnificent and once on the plateau you were able to get a real sense of the size and grandeur of the falls and the gorge. Not to mention the power of nature. Water created this. Or the rainbow serpent. We spent about 45 minutes on the plateau. Usually there are remnant pools to swim/wade in, but the last wet was a poor season and there was very little water around. In fact, the falls weren't, they were merely cliffs. We were shown photos taken from a drone at the recap that night. The scale of the flood is not something easily captured in words.

The view from the main fall

The survivors

We boarded the Zodiac and headed around for a close up of the cliff face. Lurking in the shadows of one of the falls was a Zodiac containing Maxime, one of the bar tenders, with several cases of champagne. George manoeuvred the Zodiac into position and Maxime served us a well deserved glass of bubbles. We then headed back to the ship.

Looking back at both falls

The Zodiac arrived late, which was not really a problem because I walked gingerly direct to lunch. Jayne was waiting and already had a table and a glass of wine waiting for me. Sitting on the side of the inflatable Zodiac for nearly 4 hours had taken its toll, my legs were slow to move and I was very aware that I was more happy to stand for a while. All this in the knowledge that in another hour I was getting onto another Zodiac to sit for another 3 and a half hours.

A young osprey

At 2pm it was time to head out again. Our guide this time was Adrian, a young South African man of great self-confidence. Curiously, today at least, this confidence was well placed as we saw dugong, crocodile, black and white stork, humped back dolphins and a young osprey. The smoke haze that looked like it was going to spoil the afternoon disappeared with the breeze and so did the choppy water. It was a much more pleasant experience on board the Zodiac, although I had some issues maintaining a comfortable seat.

Dugong - never thought I'd see one

The black and white stork

It was just on dark as we returned to the ship. Adrian manoeuvred the Zodiac to ensure we could get a great silhouette shot of Le Lapérouse.

Until next time.

Bow River (Kununarra - the Ord River)

From one iconic Australian rock band to another dear reader. This time it is Cold Chisel and their 1982 classic Bow River. The title came easily after reading a map of the area at the Durack Homestead where Bow river was listed in large font.

At some stage we were informed that this is not a cruise but an expedition. As such, early mornings and long days were to be expected. A cruise is a holiday where you sit around all day. So joining the  a 7:20 am queue for the bus should not be considered out of the ordinary. 

Our driver was Kevin, a blow-in from Cairns who lives in Kununarra and works for Triple J Tours during the dry season. In the wet he returns to Cairns where the summer temperatures and humidity make the Kimberley wet season look like some form of punishment inflicted on those who cannot escape. The drive took us through Wyndham - at least three versions of it. Total population less than 1000. Everything that operated here at some point has closed. We noted there was land for sale at New Wyndham, no price listed. There were some large bronze statues that were positioned off the main road and a replica crocodile (on the main road) and that was pretty much it. No road side cafés or any infrastructure to support tourism or the local population for that matter. In fact the main building worthy of commentary, apart from the now closed pub that was to have been renovated but they ran out of money, was the  police station!

A random snap of the river to break up the text

The drive to Kununarra absorbed about an hour of the day. The road was excellent and virtually brand new. Kevin provided background chatter, sorry, information, about the area. We covered the incessant burning of the area by different groups and the negative impact it was having on the environment. He talked of the Ord River scheme and the benefits it has brought to WA, if not the residents of Wyndham. The Duracks, the 'original' pioneering family were mentioned all the way down to Kimberley Durack, the man credited with the concept and the political agitation for the Ord River dam. 

The only mention of the indigenous population was the high % of inhabitants at Wyndham and the first Patrick Durack's faithful servant, Pumpkin, who had accompanied him from Queensland. Apparently the Duracks treated the indigenous population better than most because Patrick left Pumpkin his gold watch when he died.

Warning: political statement. He left him his gold watch! The only concern I had about the day and all we heard was the lack or original, authentic indigenous voice. Once again Australia seems to create some apologist perspective or a cleansing of history by referencing the first inhabitants through kind treatment when the inverse was true in the vast majority of situations. Ethnic cleansing might have been a better term and WA continued some seriously dubious policies under the guise of protecting the original inhabitants well into last century. Australians seem to be embarrassed by the continued existence of Aborigines and will probably continue so to do until we actually own the real history of this country which may involve a story of pioneering bravery but also needs to acknowledge the almost complete dispossession and destruction of the indigenous culture.

The diversion dam wall at Kununarra

Kununarra is unremarkable. It has everything you would expect of a country town that is trying to develop itself into something bigger and better. The Ord River scheme, in striking contradiction,  is remarkable. It is a significant story of achievement and given government was involved, it makes the story even more remarkable. By way of contrast, look at the Murray-Darling Basin and the incompetent management and exploitation of that area. 

The Ord scheme created two dams which have sustained the life of the river through the dry season, ensured constant water flow and supported agricultural development resulting in the continued growth of industry in the area. The hydro electric plant at the base of the dam wall at Lake Argyle delivers 85% of the areas' power and delivered the closure of the diesel power generator - an environmental and economic win. Beyond this is a haven it has created for wildlife from fresh water crocodiles (the harmless ones) to an abundance of bird life and around 26 species of fish- all native to Australia! What no carp???

The boat trip up the river to the dam wall at Lake Argyle was magical. But I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Little Corellas

A darter drying its wings

A freshie basking in the sun

A rock wallaby watching us float past

Little fruit bats

The dam wall at Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle

The bus ride back to Wyndham was much the same as the trip down. Dylan our driver (he was also our captain on the river with an amazing encyclopedic knowledge of the system, its flora and fauna) provided further information. We stopped at the Durack Homestead, a building removed from the floor of the dam, before flooding, and eventually rebuilt well above the water line. It was unremarkable in all aspects - what it was, what it represented and as a museum it didn't do the job either. The only mention of the indigenous population came with a couple of photos of a wedding and the headstone of Pumpkin. Let's keep pretending black history is unimportant. I was not the only traveller to make that point.

Back home, we dined on Deck 4 with Ken and Moya. Dinner is a tad more formal on Deck 4. It is 5 courses with wine and all the usual trappings. It was another early night. I had to be up at 5:30 in the morning to climb King George Twin Falls.

Until next time.

Blue Sky Mine (Darwin to Wyndham)

As I suggested in my last posting my dear reader, my missives will be somewhat intermittent this vacation. A combination of long days filled with activity and a fragile satellite connection to the internet are conspiring against me. I concluded last time with a reference to the demographic. Might I add that the go-to accessories on this cruise are hearing aids. I apologise if you find my timeline somewhat confused. Not writing each day is an issue for me and there will be references to the full day on the water and the time beyond. Time takes on a fluid dimension on the Kimberley and I shall try to do better.

Today's title is from one of Australia's premier rock bands, Midnight Oil. All will become clear, patience.

There was another cracking sunset last night. The smoke from fires burning all over the Kimberley help make them more stunning. Apparently the stars are something special as well, but at this point a full moon and early nights has precluded us from enjoying them.

One disappointing aspect, perhaps the only one to date, is the serving of Gossips Rosé in the bar. On a cruise that prides itself as being high-end, this is, well, just not good enough. Yes, I'm a wine snob and no, I didn't try it. The French version is, I'm sure, far superior and very tasty.

Jayne  was sick when we woke after the trip out to Indo. The swell was quite noticeable and the sea-sick bags were placed discreetly around the ship, but we don't suspect sea sickness. She had recovered by mid-morning and a lunch-time champagne returned her health and humour.

We had a mandatory briefing around the use of the Zodiacs as our main form of transport and the usual WHS talk. How to get in and out of the craft without damaging our replacement hips and new knees. Well, maybe not for us, but there are a lot of people sporting fashionable scars on their knees. Post-briefing we were issued with our Zodiac life vests. They are small and light weight and activate only in water. Allegedly. Jayne was tempted to wear hers in the shower but resisted the temptation. The vests billow yellow when deployed and are described as 'pop corn' so we don't want to be shamed by having to ask for another vest...

Later in the day we enjoyed a lecture on the geology of the Kimberley and another briefing, this time on the Ord River Scheme and the activities of the following day.

That night was our first gala dinner and we teamed up with Ken and Moya again. I wore my suit, no tie, but it didn't really seem to matter. Some people had gone all out: suits, bow ties, evening dresses,  pearls, superior, arrogant attitudes, (OK that was just one person) but it certainly was not as formal or stuffy as the brochure and pre-cruise information stated. In fact, I only wore the suit because I brought the damn thing!  The brochures say 'required' but the reality is 'suggested' - a world of difference in packing for the cruise.

Lots of space for crocodiles

The morning saw us at Wyndham. Information: forgettable. Google it for interest. The meat works has closed. The pub has closed. We were provided with a potted history of the area on the ship and on the bus en route to Kununarra. Both failed to mention the history of asbestos mining. Cue Midnight Oil and Blue Sky Mine. I'm  not calling it censorship, but how can you ignore something that was a significant part of the history of the area? What's that you say my learnéd reader? Oh, oh yes, terra nullius. Yes, this is Australia, we can forget a lot of things. As we say in Redfern, white history has a black past.

A quiet morning in Wyndham

At this point dear reader I have the opportunity to separate memories. And I shall. Although I have commenced the day of the Ord River excursion, I will end this post. I don't want to overwhelm you with information.

Therefore, until next time ...

Nothing much happens (Darwin and into the sea)

Today's title is courtesy of Ben Lee from the late '90s and is a nod to yesterday as much as it reflects Sunday in Darwin. After a terminally long travel day we slept very well. I am uncertain as to whether that was a reflection of travel exhaustion or the ice cold Kirin I had prior to bed. Regardless I woke very much refreshed and ready for the excitement of the day. Except it's Sunday morning in Darwin, a city better known for starting late and kicking on.

We stayed here at the Novotel in 2008 when we attended a conference. Not much has changed. It is looking a little tired, like the tropical heat has beaten it into submission and could probably do with a make-over. At the very least a gardener is required to bring the Devil's Ivy back to life. It is flourishing in some areas, in others, like outside our room, it is struggling for life against the ravages of scale.

It was time for breakfast, something we enjoyed in the Smith Street Mall last time we were here. It is a 5 minute stroll and it is a beautiful cloudless day, around 25˚ and breezy. Not quite like Sydney yesterday, but strong enough to send café billboards careering through the al fresco areas of the mall to the amusement of the breakfast crowd

Fresh juice and good coffee. Yum. Simple and yet difficult to find in the one place in Sydney. After breakfast we wandered through the few shops that were open. I am after a new Aboriginal flag T-shirt, one without writing on it. I purchased my current shirt hereon the last trip but it was not going to be replaced today. The search continues. There were plenty of the CU in the NT shirts and I was tempted, but no.

Mid-morning I decided I needed to have my hair cut before the cruise. I popped down to the Hair Dude. No appointment, sit and wait your turn. Remember those days dear reader? Checking out the girls in the Pix and People magazines? No? You're too young ... oh, sorry. You've missed an experience and a significant right of passage for Australian males. Not to mention the mirror into mirror experience, mis en abyme. My barber was a young 20 something from, wait for it, Cherrybrook, New South Wales. I know. I travel all that way to let a girl from the Hills area cut my hair.

Anyway, she's been on a cruise and, you know, like, you'll love it. It's like a floating RSL club. The food is great. They had the best mashed potato. And a casino. It was so cool. Hmmm. Hoping my experience will be somewhat different.

Prior to exploring the wilds of Darwin we met a fellow traveller in the hotel. We traded our Ponant cruise information for his knowledge of the Ghan. Another of my bucket list Australian experiences.

Goodbye Darwin

We had a few hours to kill prior to embarkation so we walked down to the Teddy Bears' Picnic. Happily the festivities had concluded and the children were all heading home with their parents. We continued our walk around past parliament and Government House where we caught our first glimpse of Le Laperouse through the trees. It was almost lunch time so we meandered up to the Smith Street Social for a cleansing ale or two and a light lunch then back to the hotel to collect our bags.




Boarding the ship was a relatively simple process and Darwin was soon fading into the distance. Those with cruise experience were easy to identify, they introduced themselves immediately. The first onboard activity was the safety briefing and by the time we headed to dinner, we already knew half a dozen people.

The cabin, sorry, prestige stateroom, was much more spacious than I thought. We have a lounge, a small balcony, queen size bed and an accessible bathroom. There is plenty of storage for our clothes. There is also a colour TV, not that I imagine that will get any use at all.

At dinner we sat with a couple that we met as we made our way onto the ship. Jayne had stopped to take their photo for them. Dinner was low key on level 3, buffet as opposed to the a la carté on level 4 and the alcohol flowed freely. Mind you, we could order from the a la carté menu as well - and did. Champagne, champagne and more champagne. This is my kind of cruise.

The concern I had over the formalities of suits and dress shirts were unfounded. It appears that everything is far more relaxed than the brochure outlines. The first of the galah evenings, sorry, I believe it is spelled gala, is tonight and there is no need to suit up. I am going to though - I brought the bloody thing so it shall be worn.

You would know my avid reader that it is always my intention to write one blog post per day. However, I fear I will not be able to meet that exacting standard on this holiday. Wifi access is via satellite and is, as they say in the classics, dodgy at best. A pathetic excuse, I know, but couple that with the fact that this is an expedition and time is strictly limited. We are off the ship every day except today. And some days commence at 6:30am! Zut alors!

The casual dining area on level 3

Last night we headed out towards Indonesia to go into their national waters for some bureaucratic reason that I will attempt to understand and explain at a later date. Then we turned around and headed straight back to Australian territorial waters and for Wyndham. We arrive there at 4am on Tuesday. All of Monday is on board and it is the only day we don't disembark.

We encountered some swell last night that has continued into today. It is not that big, but it certainly makes navigating the corridors interesting. I'm not sure that it rocked me to sleep either and it is certainly noticeable compared with the calmer water around Darwin.

Today we had a briefing in the theatre around the access and use of the Zodiacs that will be deployed getting us to and from our destinations. The next pier we see will be in Broome. So the Zodiacs are a life line. Then later in the day we had a lecture on the geology of the Kimberley.  This afternoon we have a briefing on our shore excursion tomorrow. We are are heading up the Ord River. Before that I have had a massage. I know, my envious reader, it is a tough life, but someone has to do it.

Lunch today was a buffet. More champagne and a nice little French rosé. The menu was predominantly seafood but there were other options for the Philistines. We commenced with a cheese plate and then Coffin Bay oysters and prawns. Delightful. In the interesting category I would place the sea snail - my first and possibly my last attempt. Interesting smokey flavour, chewy, and not for me. There was a huge array of desserts and breads. Oh my, the bread and the croissant and pain au chocolat. heaven, I'm in heaven.

The demographic on board, you ask? Well, we are not the youngest, but there would only be  handful younger than us and they are most certainly not Australian. My hair colour seems to be quite the fashion among the men, although our mobility and agility is superior to many. It is quite an international mix and there are more Australians than I thought I would see. France, Japan, the US and New Zealand are also well represented. There is a smattering of South Africans too. Many, it would appear, are repeat customers for Ponant. That speaks volumes for the experience.

Until next time.

The longest time (even longer than I imagined)

Well hello my dear reader, it is lovely to be communicating with you again. The title? Read on, all will become clear. Sadly you can't join me on the cruise it is fully booked. Yes, cruise. Surprised? Well, so am I. Still, and I booked this trip about a year ago. I know, I know, a cruise. Me captive on board a ship. Not a pretty picture. To be fair it's not a floating block of flats or a houseboat. Intrigued? This is the same cruise offered in May 2020: https://au.ponant.com/cruises/pacific-and-oceania-australia-s-iconic-kimberley-r080520-db145-5

I had recurring nightmares following the houseboat holiday and that was so long ago I can't remember the year. Trapped. I couldn't get off. This time is different, but, uncharacteristically, let's begin at the beginning.

We packed last evening. Packing for a trip is never fun but this bordered on cruel and unusual punishment. The on-board activities and the fact that is an 'up-market' cruise meant that we packed more clothes than we would for a lengthy European sojourn. Day wear, evening wear, casual clothes, elegant clothes, clothes for scrambling over rocks, a white outfit. A white outfit? I own one white T-shirt courtesy of being marooned in LA on a flight back from Canada. I'm pretty certain that won't meet their exacting dress standards. Then there are two formal dinners. A dark suit is required with a tie or bow-tie. I don't own a dark suit and I don't wear ties anymore. That should be an interesting night. This is a holiday. Allegedly. I was majorly pissed with the pretentious people on Hamilton Island for their 'dress standards'. I know this is next level, but still ... a holiday? 

The taxi ride to the airport was most entertaining in an old school way. The driver was Australian, in his 60s and not pleased with the performance of the NSW Government. We talked politics, we talked about the crisis befalling Sydney apartment dwellers (hopefully not including us), the gridlock that has been created around the international airport, the demise of Kings Cross, the lock-out laws and their impact on Sydney's international reputation as a tourist destination, his dislike for Gladys Berejiklian and his disappointment in the previous leader of the Opposition. Actually, mostly he talked and we listened...Good times.

And so to the Qantas Business Lounge for breakfast. It's not the level of the International Lounge but it is a step up from the Qantas Club and nowhere near as crowded. At least at this hour. My chilled mood evaporated when we received a text to say the flight was delayed. Now my patient reader you may recall the drama I had travelling last year, when almost every flight I had was delayed. Some, in fact were cancelled and I was stranded in LA and Shanghai at varying times. Work colleagues would not book the same flights in case my curse afflicted them too. Today's flight you ask? Delayed by 5 hours. Count them. 5. Why? Operational requirements. Read - the flight crew has to have sufficient down time before flying again. Presumably this would have been a known issue and we might have been notified last night instead of finding out this morning after we arrived.

Not something any traveller wants to see.

I am, however, looking at this as an opportunity not a problem. I now have time to complete a couple of things I've been working on for a while. The down side is the group of three people sitting 10 metres away who don't seem to understand the concept of an inside voice. To add insult to injury they are discussing schools and their failings. Specifically the school system's failure to produce resilient young people.  This balding, loud-voiced, opinionated wanker knows where the problem lies: teachers. Well, he did attend school and compared it to what he believes it to be like today. He is wrong. I am fervently hoping that he is not on our plane because that will mean another 6 hours of this ignorant drivel.

Oh joy! He is leaving and we discover his riveted audience was not actually accompanying him - they depart separately.  We are better off than them - they had to appear interested in what he was saying...

Time passes very slowly. I lap the room for something to break the monotony. The bar does not open until 12 and that seems like a life time away. People come and go, the ebb and flow of a tide of travellers. The loud, who seem to be oblivious to those around them. Or perhaps they believe their conversation is worthwhile for everyone to hear. The quiet men who sit and read the newspaper, flicking from page to page with a passive-aggressive crack that draws my attention each time. The toddlers, unaware of their surroundings who wander happily singing and humming to themselves. The mobile phone users who take the word mobile literally and walk and talk a little too loudly. The bored, the tired, the disinterested, the coughing and sneezing germ spreaders. We are all here. Sadly for Jayne and me we are here for the longest time. Yes, a Billy Joel song from circa 1983.

The bar is open! Sadly, the sparkling white wine is as described and not champagne. Time for a Yarra Valley chardy to break the monotony. And then some butter chicken and jasmine rice to soak up the alcohol. A few laps of the lounge. You can sense my dedicated reader that I don't do sitting still very well. Hence my concern about the cruise. Less than an hour to our alleged boarding time and no gate has been allocated. As a result of my laps of the lounge, I am fairly certain I can identify a dozen or so fellow travellers that are Darwin bound.

The delay is annoying because we are only in Darwin overnight. However, this would have been compensated for had we been flying international. They have champagne in the international first lounge and table service and I have access. Sad face with tears.

New notifications. Confusing and conflicting. We are now going to be boarding or departing at 3:20pm, that's only 6 hours later than scheduled. Not a lot of sorry action going on. Not impressed. Time for more wine ... for the longest time. And some assorted nuts. I'm sure they have extra salt to make me drink more. Like that's ever required.

Pretty sunset as we approached Darwin.

Oh, oh, oh, they just thanked us for our patience. Clearly that does not apply to me. Apparently the plane has just departed from wherever and will be landing in Sydney at 3pm. Boarding shortly thereafter. Excited ... not ... over it.

Flight: uneventful - although extremely beautiful. Refer to picture.

Taxi to hotel: same. There seems to be more high rise than when we last here (2008 according to Jayne) but the drive into town happened in darkness.

It's hot up here. We were thirsty

It was a very long day. Over 14 hours in transit. Cheers to Qantas who knew our flight was going to be delayed before we arrived at the the airport. The date stamp on the original text was dated before 11pm the day before we were to fly. We could have had most of the day at home! Instead we were at the airport by 7am. Cheers Qantas. No, I'm still not over it.

Staring up at the ceiling

We are in Darwin, finally. We have had food and beer at the hotel. Not quite what I had planned for the evening, but refreshing nonetheless. The squid is perfection as you would expect here. It is now time for sleep.

Until tomorrow, or as I would write if I was in France (and I wish I was),
a demain.