Did I mention today's untimely start dear reader? Like many things in life it is all about perspective. Jayne considered the 6:45am wake up untimely, I'd already been up for some time. Why the early rise? We are going on 'safari', their word not mine. A guided wetlands safari down the Murray past Renmark through a series of small creeks to the Heading Cliffs. An early start is essential to be able to see the wildlife as well as beat the sun, as it can be quite ferocious here. All of this meant breakfast was coffee. I have endured worse privations.
Today's title is courtesy of Leonard Cohen. It's a bit of a stretch because the river was not dark when we were on it, but hey, after 300+ blog posts I was bound to run out of inspiration at some point.
Tony and Jeremy turned up at exactly 8am to drive us to the boat and give us a rundown of what to expect. Jeremy is an indigenous man who usually works at Calpernum Station where they also run eco-tours. His knowledge was most welcome and insightful. After a quick detour to the closest river lock number 5, where Tony discussed how it worked and the role the many locks on the river play in flood mitigation, we headed for the quieter areas, back streams and wetlands.
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| A peaceful way to begin the day on the river |
Many of the streams we meandered down were less than 1 metre deep. Many had logs and other hidden obstacles, as well as the more obvious navigational concerns posed by reeds and overhanging tree branches. It is hard to imagine that some of the waterways we travelled on form part of the course for the annual Dinghy Derby. You really need to read about it. Two people in a tinnie with an outboard motor no larger than 30 hp, tearing up the waterways at breakneck speed - all for the glory of winning a $6 perpetual trophy. It seemed at odds with the serenity of the morning and the leisurely pace at which we motored.
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| It was as tight as it looks |
There were plenty of birds and animals. We saw kangaroos, emus, whistling kites, peregrine falcons, herons, spoonbills, swallows, swans, yellow rosellas, red rump parrots and kookaburras to name a few. Along the way we stopped for a cup of tea and a piece of homemade chocolate slice and chatted about the Dinghy Derby and other topics related to the river.
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| A young emu |
Tony had told us that we would be stopping for brunch. We had anticipated a muffin and another cup of tea. Instead, we were reacquainted with Rob from yesterday, who had a table set with OJ and bubbles on ice. After Rob had shown us around, and we tasted saltbush, pigs face and samphire, all growing naturally, we were seated for our brunch to be served. Scrambled eggs with samphire, asparagus, tomato, bacon, mushroom and focaccia. Once again The Frames had exceeded expectation.
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| Better than a muffin |
Jeremy then walked us along the river bank pointing out signs of indigenous occupation. He identified clay ovens, ring trees, canoe trees and other trees that were used to make shields and denote burial sites. It was incredibly interesting and Jeremy is most knowledgeable.
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| A canoe tree |
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| A ring tree where the branches have been joined |
Back on the boat we headed for Heading Cliffs a most spectacular cliff formation of clay. That was the turning point and Tony steered the boat towards home. The wind had picked up by this time and trip back was very bumpy. Still, as promised, he had us back at the mooring by 1:30pm.
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| The cliffs |
On arrival at our retreat, we discovered a complimentary bottle of bubbles waiting for us on the bench. But first it was time for a few laps of the pool to stretch my back after sitting down for so long. Perhaps the bumpy ride home was like a chiropractic treatment but my back is the best it's been for a while. Laps done, we popped the cork on the bubbles and settled into some serious relaxation. I tempered this with a trip to the infrared sauna. Twenty minutes at 50°C certainly brought on a sweat before another dip in the pool. Strangely enjoyable.
Dinner tonight was the in-room chef. Yes dear reader the chef appears at your door with all the requisites for cooking you a three course dinner - pre-ordered of course. Karly arrived at 6pm and immediately set to work, although all the major prep had been done earlier. There was an amuse bouche, entrée of prawns and beef fillet, mains of glazed chicken and glazed lamb rump and dessert, lemon posset and chocolate delicé. This was accompanied by a 2017 The Frames Shiraz. Rick makes his own wine and a damn fine drop it is too.
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| Glazed lamb rump |
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| The chicken |
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