Ahhh, Billy Idol. Good times.
Anyway, we packed and were on the road before 10am. It was a glorious day for the start of the Pentecost long weekend and, just like a long weekend in Australia, everyone was heading for the coast. The traffic jam, or bouchon, was massive heading south. We got caught a couple of times heading north and getting through Lyon was a nightmare.
We arrived in Chalon-sur-Saone in the mid-afternoon and headed for the town centre. Once we found a parking spot we made our way toward the the Hotel de Ville (that's the Town Hall for the uninformed like moi). Each town organises itself around the town hall and the subsequent town square. So, it's the best place to find food and drink.
We positioned ourselves directly across the road from the Hotel de Ville, and being Saturday there were a number of weddings - not all white. In France weddings are not legal unless they have been witnessed by a civil representative. Some people choose to have a civil rep at their church wedding, others have the church wedding, and in one case we saw yesterday, they then decamp for the Hotel de Ville - which in this case was next door. It was quite amusing watching the wedding party and guests move into the church, then out of the church into the Town Hall and then out again for photos on the steps.
There were three weddings that we saw and only one did the church/Town Hall double. Just as we were about to leave, some more guests came tumbling out of the Town Hall and arranged themselves on the steps. There was no church service for this group. So, we waited to see the married couple. Finally, two young men in suits emerged and had rice and confetti thrown on them by the well-wishers and received a big cheer from many of the lunch crowd as well.
Dracy-les-Couches
After lunch we did some shopping to counter Sunday closing and the dreaded Monday, public holiday. It was after 4pm when we arrived at our new accommodation. We unpacked, changed and
Our new neighbours. |
went to the meet-and-greet with the owners and other guests. We spent a most enjoyable evening drinking and chatting and then repaired to our verandah to watch the sun set over the fields.
We have made a genuine attempt to stay out of the towns in the small villages, but En La Marre has taken this to a new level. We are 10 minutes, by car, from the closest village, surrounded by farmland, populated with cattle. There are plenty of vineyards too. You can't get more country than this.
The 'barn'. |
Pentecost Sunday
We were curious to see if the Pentecost weekend translated into large numbers in Mass on Sunday morning. I was skeptical. And I was wrong. It was standing room only.
Again, the church is an historical feature, vaulted ceilings, carved timber altar - but we forgot to check how old it is. It is in Couches and is St Peter and Paul's. Lined up at the door were 20 kids, dressed in white albs. At the beginning of Mass they were called, individually by name by the priest. They replied, "I am here" and walked to apse and took a seat behind the altar. After the homily, the kids walked to the back of the church and were presented with a candle. It was lit and they processed to the altar and formed a circle around it. The priest then presented each child with a cross to wear around their neck. The candles were then placed at the front of the altar and kids returned to their seats behind the altar itself.
Although there was no Bishop, we assumed that this was the French version of a confirmation ceremony. And what a great day to welcome the youth of the Parish into the church community as adults - Pentecost Sunday.
Chagny Markets
Priorities. |
After Mass, we were on another kind of mission, to get to the local markets before pack up so we could get essential provisions (cheese, bread and ham) and have a wander around. As with all the local markets, there sights to see that apparently are not notable to the French but to us they are quirky or remarkable.
Nothing unusual here. |
After the markets, we went to Mercurey, another local village, to taste and buy some local Burgundy wines - another first as the cellar we happened upon had a system of wall display casings in which they have bottles of wine grouped in reds and whites made by various local vignerons. We did not know what was the procedure so we watched for a while and then a lady who was tasting the wines explained that you purchase a card loaded to whatever amount you select and then you use the card to insert into the display fridge and you choose either a tasting or a glass of the wine you wish to try. The tasting amount is obviously cheaper than a full glass and the card gets debited and you continue to taste until you run out of credit. We generally refuse to pay for tastings in Australia but really, since we know nothing about the Burgundy region, dropping in at a random vineyard is a lottery and as the lady said at the cellar, this way she does not feel obliged to buy a case of wine if she does not want to since she has paid for the wine she has sampled anyway.
We purchased a couple of bottles and then headed home to sit on the verandah and write these few words. It's just after 4pm so happy hour will commence shortly. Almost, we've just been invited to drinks with the other guests. It's a tough life.
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