Living on the edge (Queribus)

Aerosmith! That came from Jayne! It is pertinent to two of the major things we did today.

This is a double edition so you might want to get a cuppa, or a glass of red - I could recommend a few. I suppose I shouldn't mention again how cheap wine is over here? We are going wine tasting on Friday afternoon. No worries about RBT, the winery is part of the village. Nice.

 Queribus

Queribus from a distance

Anyway, the day confounded the weather forecaster and was a beautiful, cloudless day, although a tad windy. We turned on the duelling GPS systems and Jayne negotiated a route between the two of them. Queribus was a Cathar castle stronghold. It is spectacular because it rises from a buttress of sheer rock and dominates the landscape for some distance. The view from the top is amazing - the Mediterranean Sea in one direction, the Pyrenees in another. It is easy to understand why it was selected as an outpost. Generally it was manned by about 25 soldiers who could raise an alarm if they saw anything move on the plains below. All they had to was leave the castle and jump on a horse. Yes, they had stables at the base of the castle!

First glimpse of the Mediterranean

In getting Jayne to agree to go to Queribus, I had neglected to tell her that there was a climb involved. There was a path, but it was very rocky and unstable. The wind added an element of challenge as well. But, she was brave and decided that it was worthwhile, after the event.

Climb every mountain

 This sign was attached to the ticket booth. I didn't see it until the lady selling the tickets warned Jayne about her glasses, saying they could be blown off her face. Even in France where OH&S has yet to disturb common sense I thought this was an exaggeration. I was totally wrong. The wind was ferocious in parts and it was incredibly difficult negotiating the open doorway out of the castle. You had hold on to the rope support and pull yourself forward to leave the castle.

One of the natives staying out of the wind.

There was no real evidence of this on the way up as we were sheltered by the mountain.

Like many of the castles/chateaux we have visited, their origins go way back, often to Roman times, and their lives have changed with the shifting fortunes of the times. Queribus is no different and has had at least three different lives over the years, although it did not survive the Albigenesian Crusade. I'm probably displaying my ignorance, but I previously believed the crusades were generally fought against the 'evils' of Islam. I hadn't realised that the Church had turned on its own if they weren't compliant.

A view from every window.

Worth the climb. Jayne said "yes".

Gorges du Galamus 

Jayne decided that she didn't want to return via the way we had arrived at Queribus, so I suggested we continue on the same road which would take us in a loop. Bad idea. No, really bad idea.

I could see the road from the top of the mountain. It was wide with little white lines down the centre, not one of those nasty little windy roads barely big enough for one car. Well, it was for a little while. We (sharing the blame) should have realised when the sign said 'gorge' that the road would get narrow.

Looks inviting doesn't it?

I drove past the car park and regretted not stopping to get a photo or 2. We rounded the bend and the road narrowed. It was actually carved into the side of the mountain. Well, at least there is a barrier between us and the depths of the ravine. We rounded the next bend and the road narrowed again. Now not wide enough for two cars to pass and the overhang started to reach right across the road in sections. I'm not sure I can do this, I thought, but I knew I couldn't go back either. Then I wondered whether Basil had led us down a one-way road (it wouldn't be the first time this week).

Nice drop.

We met a family walking down the road. I'm sure some of them laughed at us. I really started to wonder if it was one-way. Rounding the next bend we encountered our first car coming from the opposite direction. I stopped and reversed a bit to allow him into the widened section. He passed, we continued. Another car. He stopped in the pull-over area and his wife got out to take photos, while we drove through. This was not fun. Jayne wasn't having fun either and I was thinking that I was being repaid for duping her into coming to Queribus.

OK, the scenery was gorgeous. How do I know? Images from the internet. But seriously, there should have been a warning about the narrow road and the overhang. Jayne and I both imagined that there would have been people who would have panicked and not be able to continue the drive.

Obviously we got out safely, but I'm not happy that I didn't get any photos. It has been made abundantly clear to me that we are not driving down past the gorge again, so net images will have to suffice.

The minor roads over here are an issue, not the least because people drive at speeds too fast for safety. I almost lost a side mirror yesterday. The other car was driving too fast, in the middle of the road and scrambled to move over and only just made it. To complicate matters, there is a drainage ditch on the side of the road, so there is very little verge to use when a truck is coming the other way.

 Chateau D'Arques

Part of the reason for continuing on the road that led to the gorges was that there was another Cathar stronghold that looked like it was worth a visit. Thankfully, after surviving Queribus and the gorge road, there were no life threatening cliffs to climb or gale force winds here to blow us off the ramparts - just a group of local artists who were busily setting up their exhibition in the lower chamber of the castle and had decided to cover up the car park sign with their own advertising - a bit Irish to want people to stop to see your work but you conceal the sign that enables them to park their cars while they visit your exhibition ...

D'Arques from the village

Anyway we visited and climbed the narrow spiral staircase up to the top storey and, while it was interesting in its different design and unusually accessible location, it was a bit of an anti-climax after the "life flash before our eyes" moments that we had endured earlier in the day.

La Galloise

La Galloise is the bar/cafe/restaurant/meeting place across the road, literally, from where we are staying in Alaigne.

It is for sale on ebay if you are interested. Here is the web address:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cafe-Bar-Restaurant-House-Land-Business-sale-France-/160793687351?pt=UK_B_I_Business_for_Sale_CV&hash=item25700cf537

We ventured over there on Wednesday evening for dinner and a drink. They actually serve Guinness, which was a pleasant surprise. It is run by a Welsh couple and was generally populated by ex-pat Brits - only the Scots were missing. It was like a scene from some TV show. We made instant friends who were all happy to tell us their opinions on what is worth seeing around here as we head into Provence. As we were about to leave, Les (the owner) asked if we would stay to sing happy birthday to one of the French locals. It was no easy task getting out the door. Dinner was good and it was wonderful being made so welcome. Village life really is the way to go; we saw a similar thing in Ireland. Australia has lost its way with community - but I'll more to say about that another time.

Today is Thursday and another public holiday. Thankfully the pub is open tonight, so we won't starve.

I took the photo of Alaigne from in front of this house.

Alaigne.