I've been locked out (Mont Saint-Michel)

Crowded House, for those of you who don't recognise the reference - and the songs are still going strong. The reason for this title today? Read on MacDuff, but first: bird news.

The sea gulls over here are gi-normous and would easily carry Cait off for dinner. People affected by Hitchcock's film The Birds should stay well away.

Sea gull.

And what passes for a magpie is a joke. Our magpies would take it out in one swoop. They are smaller and flighty and not dominant like Australian magpies. I doubt that they would have the nerve to swoop me - and it is nesting season.

European magpie.

Le Mont Saint-Michel
Is absolutely beautiful and so impressive, it just rises out of the flood plain!

Taken about 5km out of town.

We actually stumbled out of bed at 6-15am to get there before the crowds. It was a 90 minute drive and we arrived before 9am and the first car park was already full and there were people returning from the island already. We were also concerned because May 1 is a big day in France. It is a holiday for many people - but not all, although we couldn't work that out.

From the causeway.

There were not a lot of people there, comparatively, and the cobblestoned streets are reminiscent of many of the medieval towns throughout France. There are over 300 steps from ground archway to the top of the mount, and we were ready for them.

The street up to the abbey was narrow and populated with cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops and museums. We thought about a coffee on the way down until we checked the prices. As much as I love a view and a coffee, not even I would pay 7 Euro. We had followed the advice from Lonely Planet and packed our own lunch. Fresh baguettes, jambon, fromage and tomate. I love French breads, but more of that later.

Looking across the tidal flat.

Jayne was still in good condition when we reached the Abbey - but we still had 200 or so steps in front of us. But not today. IT WAS CLOSED! (See the poster below). It's not that easy to read with

Grrrrrrrrrr!

the sunlight on it, but it says that the Abbey is open from September 1 until April 30 and from May 2 until August 31. That's right it is closed for one bloody day of the year, and it was the day we chose to visit! Sad face, double tears. So, we walked back down and out along the causeway to the village. There were literally hundreds of people heading in the opposite direction. We couldn't understand what they were going to do out there - unless it was have lunch.

We knew some places would be closed on May Day but didn't think the major tourist attraction of the area would be one of them. We had checked the Lonely Planet Guide, Trip Advisor and I'd even been on the official French Mont Saint-Michel website. No-one indicated that it would not be open. (Brad has been very kind here - one of the guide books actually did identify that it would not be open today - I just neglected to pay attention to that small but important symbol when reading all about Le Mont. I have to say though that the size of the crowds would be scary on a day when the Abbey is actually open. Just getting out of the carpark brought back horrific memories of Heathrow and I can only assume it would be 1000-fold worse when there was actually something to see beyond La Grande Rue.)

A winged statue of St Michael on the very top of the steeple.

I guess, dear reader, the upside is that you've been spared another history lesson. It is absolutely beautiful and was still worth the drive and the walk.

from the Dam in the village.

Le Pique Nique
So what to do about lunch? We walked the 2-3 kms back to the car and I decided to just follow the country roads until we found a place to have our picnic lunch. Ah, the best laid plans. The first picnic area was overpopulated with camper cars, the next didn't have any tables, the next only had tables in the shade. we drove through many small villages until we found a park with picnic tables in the sun. The village was Louvigne du Desert. No idea where it was/is. The whole time we were there, we only saw one man and his dog and another on a bike - clearly the village was taking the public holiday seriously - it was like a ghost town. Thankfully John found his way back to the A84 and home to Caen. Just as a by-line, my driving has clearly improved because Jayne fell asleep twice on the way home - would not have been game to do that a couple of days ago - sadly John woke her up with loud directions home. Not used to the early mornings anymore...

The picnic!

A question?
As a colonial power, France colonised Vietnam. As such, there are French influences in Vietnamese buildings and cuisine. So, if French bread is so crusty and tasty, what has happened in Australia? Over the last 10 years or so we have seen the local bakeries taken over by bakers from Asia and the result has been soft sweet bread with no discernible crustiness anywhere. What gives people? I want answers because when I return home I want crusty French bread.